So here are where my shoes have taken me. Lately, I've got to thinking a lot about transportation in Colombia (and apparently watching too much Sex adn the City on my computer since my last two posts have started with "I've got to thinking.") But that is neither here not there. In a country that is always changing, yet still behind the times in so many ways, I thought I would enlighten you on the many transportation choices available to one living in La Playa and the joys that await you with each:
(1) Walking -
First and foremost, your own two feet are easily the cheapest option, and often the most entertaining. Most things that you really need are within walking distance in La Playa: our school, tiendas, panaderias, churches, Atlantico University, neighborhoods to run in, even a gym run out of a small shack-like building. Plus, there are people, animals, food carts, and any number of adventures that await you if you choose this method. However, you must take into account the many obstacles. First, beware that if you are a lady, you will inevitably encounter a large number of admirers on your trek. Whether you are heading into the La Playa proper or out towards the Universities, men will whistle, call out compliments, try to use any English words they know (I even had a guy yell July! once), make noises, or even block your way for attention. In most instances, it is rather harmless, semi-flattering (if you choose to see it that way), and easy to tune out after awhile. Every now and then you will get an over-zealous admirer who wants to make your walk a little more difficult, but its all part of the adventure. For some, anyway.
Then, you must remember the live animals you will encounter. These could include anything from dogs and cats, to birds, horses, donkeys, chickens, etc. One of my children even had a hamster on my walk home yesterday. It is also entirely possible to encounter children with dead animals, as I have on several occasions. So be on guard... :)
Next, you must consider the ever changing traffic patterns. Calle 14, the main road through La Playa, has been under construction since March. Now I want to assure you that I use the word "construction" loosely. Mostly, men have been sitting around, digging up the perfectly adequate cement road, creating a mess, moving dirt around, and forcing both cars and motos to drive on the sidewalk. Now, if this doesn't sound exciting enough for you, just wait. They enjoy moving the dirt in such a way as to change the traffic pattern daily. So you never know when you are going to get run over or when the traffic will be "directed" to the other side. Furthermore, the construction creates an amazing amount of dust and dirt in the air. Like I said, always an adventure.
Lastly, and probably the worst obstacle of all, is the weather. The heat in the afternoon is downright unbearable! The sun is beating down, my hair is a sweaty mess, my clothes and soaked with sweat, and some days I am practically a puddle on the floor by the time I get home. Often, I wonder if I am even going to make it. However, we did find a nice little shortcut, htorugh a neighborhood. It is lined with nice trees (many of them with mangos!) and provides a lovely two blocks of shade and protection from the crazy construction mess. Then, when it rains, oh dear. The streets flood, the "sidewalks" get muddy, and the rains ensure that you are completely soaked by the time you read your destination, even with an umbrella. However, if you make sure to avoid the midday sun, the heat is tolerable (at least you get a nice tan ;), and the rains can often be avoided with a little patience. just gotta learn to adjust.
However, there are some perks to this whole walking thing, besides the exercise. First, there are the food and fruit stands. You can't stop for a fresh fruit juice or inexpensive snack if you are in a cab or on a moto. Nothing like a fruit juice popsicle or fresh maracuya to make the walk a little more pleasant. Secondly, you get to meet the neighbors! It's nice knowing who lives around you. You get to know them, say hi, hear about their days. Sometimes, complete strangers will even offer you some fruit from their yard (its currently mango season and I can't get enough of the mango gifts). it's acutally really nice seeing people you know and having people recognize you. it makes you a real part of the community and reminds me, at least, why I love this place so much. The people. With a little music to set the mood, it can be a very pleasant experience.
Still, if all this "adventure" is a little too much for you, and you have the money, never you fear. There are definitely other choices just an arm's reach away...
(2) Bus -
Then there are buses. Now I never considered myself a "bus person" before coming to Colombia. the invariable schedules and complicated routes left me with way too much to remember. I would much prefer a fairly regular train schedule with a list of stops or a metro map any day. However, since these options do not exist, buses are basically essential is you are without a car, poor (like me), and have any desire to actually go into Barranquilla city (or anywhere outside La Playa for that matter). Therefore, I have learned to love them, with their own set of quirks. One good thing about the buses is that they run fairly frequently (unless, of course, you are in a hurry) and you can pick a bus up at any point along its route; you don't need to walk all the way to a designated stop. Also, buses can take you almost anywhere, if you just know the right combination for relatively cheap. A typical bus costs $1,300 pesos ($1,400 on Sundays and holidays) regardless of where you get on or how far you are going (and thats about 65 cents). This makes it fairly economical and pretty simple to figure out what you owe. A few weeks in La Playa and the bus will become your best friend.
However, buses are definitely not entirely smooth sailing. First, many buses are not marked with their exact route, and what small, hand-written sign they do have is probably not legible until the bus is right in front of you (and thus too late to make it stop). Therefore, you need to know esactly what you are looking for. Second, the bus will pull away the second you step on, so hold on tight and have your money ready, because you need to pay before sitting down.. Also, be aware that buses are often crowded and not air conditioned, so try to sit near a window if at all possible. If you are fortunate to find an empty bus, don't be surprised if the people who get on after you want to sit in the seat next to you, despite all of the available seats in the rest of the bus. All part of the adventure. Ok, now that you are safely in your seat, pay attention! Because the bus will only stop when you tell it to. So if you aren't watching where you are, you very well may miss your stop and end up in God-knows-where. When you are close, make sure to give yourself enough time to maneuver to the back of the bus, push the button above the door, and wait to be let out. Then you're done. Easy, peazy, lemon-squeezy.
(3) Moto
Another popular option is the Moto. Motos can come in two forms. One is your typical, run-of-the-mill motorcycle, some of which even offer the option of wearing a helmet. The other is a wagon-looking contraption, with a bench-like bubble attached to the back of the motorcycle. Motos are typically a step up in price, but they more than make up for it in speed. They can take you just about any distance and get you there quickly - just make sure you don't value your hair style that day. plus, it is super fun!
However, they do come with some form of discomfort (I mean, it is a motorcycle )and its fair share of possible hazards. First, it puts you very close to another person on a very hot day, and with bags it can be fun trying to balance. Furthermore, I, myself, have a lovely looking scar on my leg from a burn I received almost three months ago, from stepping off the wrong side and burning my leg on the muffler (please exit to the left...). Another volunteer at a different location had a moto go so fast that when it took a turn, it skidded out and left him with his own battle wounds (simply remember despacio por favor!) Also, as another volunteer reminded me, sharing helmets can certainly open you up to lice or any other form of health issues. Entonces, efficient, fun, but slightly risky. But what's life without a little risk, right?
Below is a short jaunt on a moto through parts of La Playa (with one of my students and her dad). This is on of the mroe major roads, and once you leave, you are subjuct to crazy terrain, dirt, gravel, and rocks. Therefore, I could only film a little before holding on beat my desire for a good movie. But it gives you an idea.
(4) Cab
Perhaps the MOST efficient, yet most expensive is to take a cab. Unlike in Bogota, you do not need to call a cab ahead of time. They are just about everywhere and fairly reasonable, especially with a few people. You can comfortably fit 4 passengers in a typical cab, and some will even let you squeeze 5 (but they risk a hefty fine if they get caught). A typical cab can get you into the city for about $5,000-7,000 pesos (about $2.50-3.50) and if you need to go a little farther or its later at night, you are looking at about $10,000-12,000. The buses stop running around 9:30-9:45 PM so if you are considering a late night in the city, cabs are your only option (or you can just live it up until the buses start running again at 4-4:30 AM).
BENEFITS = speed, time, comfort, the radio, sometimes air conditioning, no weird people to have to maneuver around, etc.
DRAWBACKS = price
RULES = always negotiate a price before getting in the cab, and its perfectly reasonable to barter. Second, if you are with a colombian, let them do the talking. The second the driver realizes you are not from around here, they will raise the price like crazy. Third, pay attention, because many cab drivers have absolutely no idea where they are going. As odd as it seems, many drivers do not know the city at all. even with an address or the name of a well-known establishment. I had one cab driver struggle to drive us five blocks. It was late and we didn't feel comfortable walking in a part of the city we didn't know very well, but we ended up calling a friend to give the driver directions - back from the 15 blocks out the way we had traveled. It was a mess and took forever. Luckily we had time and got an excellent tour around el centro in the process!
(5) Friends with cars
And then there is the elusive friend with a car. This, while difficult to find, is the best optino by far. You get all the perks of a cab (speed, radio choices, air conditioning, direct routes, and a usually knowledgable driver, without the cost). It's awesome. However, most people are not lucky enough to enjoy this luxury. So for the other times when your friends are too busy to play chauffer, you are stuck with the bus or cab.
And those are your options. Clearly, La Playa and Barranquilla is just a mecca of transportation options, you just have to be open to a little adventure.
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