Summer Break....more planes than I ever need to see again

Wow its been a whole month. The sad thing is, its not that I had nothing to write about. So much has happened that each time I thought about writing, I didn't know where to start. So, instead of trying to write a lot about each thing, instead, I'll just pick up with summer break and give you the cliff notes version! Well, to the best of my ability.

GRE

So after I started studying, I realized that my initial goal was definitely not reasonable. This test is nothing like the SAT, or at least the verbal part is infinitely more difficult. for me, anyway. Sadly, I figured out early on that I was going to need to study a lot more than I had originally planned. Which meant that my Spanish studying, sadly, had to go on the back burner. A mistake that Margarita (the woman who owns our house and thinks she is my mother) reminds me of every chance she gets.

Anyway, I can only do the best I can do. So, I set myself a study schedule 2 months before the test and tried my best to stick to it. As far as me and study schedules, I didn't do half bad. While i didn't really take it too seriously (ie do more than flashcards) until two weeks before the test, I did create flashcards for the top 300 vocab words (and learned them all backwards and forwards), researched testing and question techniques, did at least one section of practice questions for each kind of question from my Kaplan Book, went through the ETS GRE math guide to relearn all the math I forgot from high school, took two full-length practice tests online, and went through most of the Number2 GRE test prep program (a great practice for anyone looking for another source of information). So come testing day, I had a pretty good idea of how I would do. My two practice tests had not gone well so I could only hope to do a little better on the actual test.

Overall, I did alright. Obviously not the original goal I set myself, but well enough to put me at least at the 50% mark for those accepted at all of the programs I am looking at. My lowest score was verbal (obviously) but I was still at the 92 percentile, which isn't bad. The vocab was definitely what killed me. I knew those 300 most common words, but there were just too many more that I didn't know. The quantitative went alright. 720, so nothing to write home about but good enough to not hurt me. And I did great on the writing section, which I think is the most important (though possibly easiest, I guess). a 5.5 out of 6. For me and timed writing, I'm definitely pleased. So ultimately, Lauren & GRE = success. Unless something changes drastically, I don't think I'll take it again. which is a huge weight off my shoulders. Now I can focus on Spanish! and maybe not get yelled at by my house mom. yay!

VISIT HOME

I'll try to keep this brief (please keep your laughter to yourself). Home was lovely. I got to sleep in a little, see a fair amount of my friends, and spend some time with family, too. I took the GRE right after I got back so I could get it out of the way. Then I spent a night in Philly with the girls. Chelsea came up from her summer in DC and Laura came out with us, too! I even got to see Lindsay & Mitch's new apartment, which was really nice. Then, the next day was a family picnic, with everyone. Grandparents, aunts, uncles, cousins, etc. And the food. oh, the food. The rest of the week was full of doctor's appointments, running errands, and random dinners with friends and family. I spent 4th of July weekend in DC, which was nice. But, sadly not enough time. I drove down with Ashley and stayed with Kati. It was so nice to catch up with them and see what is going on in everyone's lives, but there were so many people I didn't get to see. By the time two weeks rolled around, I couldn't believe where the time had gone. Comida highlights: Gramma's maccaroni salad, Arbys, La Tolteca, steak Gorgonzola alfredo & Cesar salad at Olive Garden, Enchiladas in China Town DC, mom's baked mac & cheese, pizzeria pizza, dad's cheese and bacon quiche, and the list goes on and on.... I think I have a problem, really. Overall, a great visit home. And just enough time for my family to drive me crazy ;)

THE AMAZON

Anyway, I got back at like 7pm to La Playa, sin electricity or internet. No surprises there. Did see a lovely rainbow on the way home, however the ol' camera was out of battery. I was beat so I unpacked a little and hit the hay. I had it figured out that I could leave at 6 to grab the bus and be at the airport by 8 for my 10am flight. The only problem with my plan (I realized when I woke up at 5am to pack and get ready) was that my flight actually left at 8. whoops. Sooooo I showered and packed in, no joke, 20 minutes. By 5:35 I was out the door and on my way to find a cab to haul my ass to the airport (about an hour away). Of course, the one time i need a cab, there is none. Finally, a guy agrees to take me half way (because its so early????) and i can get a second cab the rest of the way. Eager to get my butt moving, I agreed. needless to say, two cabs later I was all checked in and sitting at my gate waiting for my flight. The time? 6:30. with an hour and a half to wait. I'm so glad I stressed about this. :)

Oh, but the travel adventures did not end there. I had spent all the money in my wallet on the cabs (which I had not planned on) so I only had 5 mil left. By the time I got to Bogota I was starving so I searched the terminal up and down for an ATM. losing my mind, I asked at the info desk. Surprise, surprise...Bogota airport, huge international gateway, has no ATM without a long hike involving leaving the building. So, to at least quell my hunger, I tried to grab a sandwich at Dunkin Donuts. Guess what. Bogota airport also does not accept credit cards. So.... I took my 5 mil to the pastry counter and managed to find a baked chicken pasty. It did the trick for a bit anyway.

However, the saga could not have possibly ended here. That would just be silly. Leticia airport charges an 18 mil entrance fee to leave the airport. I knew about this, but I had not planned on spending all my money on a cab or on Bogota airport (or Leticia for that matter) not having an ATM. So here I stood, backpack on back, at the counter, with 1 mil in my wallet and not able to leave the airport. Thankfully, an Australian guy offered to lend me the money if i let him tag along to my hostel, since he had no idea where he was going. So, extra friend in tow, I finally arrived at my hostel. My bag a little lighter than I planned and slightly more in debt.
Leticia was amazing, though. I had an incredible time. Once I explained that me and my new friend, Brendan, were in fact NOT a couple, I wasted no time planning out my long weekend. My cell phone reception failed so I couldn't hook up with Aisha and her boyfriend, who were already in the city, and I didn't get to Puerto Narino, but I did get in a lot of fun Amazonian activities. I spent two days in Leticia, Colombia and two days at a nature reserve in the middle of the Peruvian rainforest. After realizing that my hostel had moved and getting lost wandering leticia more times than I'd like to admit, I finally found my bank, met Brendan and some other guys from the hostel for dinner (at a place with unlimited juice! yay!), and got to see the parrots descend on the Parque Santander, where the birds land in thousands at dusk to prepare for their slumber in the trees. It was incredible. it felt kinda nice to be traveling by myself. I got to do what I felt like, when I felt like it. With hostels, there are always people to hang out with, but I got to have a little space, which I haven't had in a long time.

The next morning, I left at 630 for my rainforest stay. We picked up breakfast at a small cafe and then headed to the small bank of the river that served at the city's port. It took between 1-2 hours to get to the bank of the river where we could hike to the reserve. But on the way, we got to see all of the fisherman at work on the Amazon and spotted some of the infamous pink dolphins. They were way too fast for me to get a good picture, but my one goal for the trip was met. chulito, I could go home a happy camper. My companions on the trek were an Irish couple who were just coming for the day and a Chinese couple, studying abroad in Bogota. The tour I had agreed to was actually all in Spanish. With the vast availability of tours in English, one might wonder why I chose to do one entirely in Spanish and stress myself out. Well, the Chinese couple really needed someone to go with them, and I actually liked the challenge. The Irish couple didn't speak any Spanish at all, so for the first half a day, the Chinese girl translated a bunch for them. But I found that I knew what he was saying even before she said it in English. Then, after they left, she didn't translate at all. :) Yes, that's right. I held my own.

The place we stayed was AMAZING. it was on Markesh Lake in the middle of the rainforest. There was a huge dock, with hammocks, tables, and canoes for relaxation. The lake was covered with water lilies and full of exotic birds and piranhas. There was even a baby manatee! The first day, we hiked through the rainforest and learned all about the flora and fauna. Then we relaxed on the hammocks on the dock, I finished my book, with the sound of the forest in the background. I think I could have laid there forever. It was then followed by a lovely all-you-can-eat buffet lunch of fresh fish, chicken, plantains, rice, sancocho, and fresh fruit juice. I took my plate out to the porch, and watched the macaws fly among the trees. After lunch, we went to feed the monkeys. Oh, yes. you heard me. we took out a canoe, went right up to the edge of the jungle on the other side of the lake, and fed the monkeys bananas OUT OF OUR HANDS. It was sooo cool. They came onto the boat and everything.

After the monkeys, the irish couple headed out with the rest of the people staying at the reserve. It was so peaceful. So we headed out onto the lake again to go PIRANHA fishing, with just a stick, tied with a string, and a hook with raw chicken. It involved a lot of waiting and a lot of technique, but eventually, I caught one! yay!! They have teeth and everything. and we even got to cook our catches for dinner! Once the sun set, the sky was spectacular. I have never seen so many stars in my entire life. Plus the milky way and both dippers! I just layed out on the dock and watched the sky. However, when I wasn't lost in my thoughts and the night sky, I was paddling in search of crocodiles. Oh, yes. you heard me. With just a rickety canoe and a guide between me and the crocodiles, we went out into the lake at night. At first, all you could see was their red eyes glowing. Then we got closer and could actually see their heads. It was pretty cool.

The next morning, I woke up for a 5 o'clock boat ride to "watch the jungle wake up." But my roommates didn't seem to wake up in time, so it was just me and the guide. But this meant that I got the monkeys all to myself. Sadly, i hadn't had time to shower so the pictures aren't fabulous. but i did get to hold like 3 monkeys so it was still worth losing some sleep. and then i got to nap on the hammocks as the sun came up. Breakfast on the porch was relaxing as usual, and a few cool birds came to visit, a toucan and a bunch of macaws! I did a little more fishing, a little more hiking, a little more playing with monkeys.

Then, I headed out early to see a man about a jaguar. My guide had told me that there were jaguars in the jungle and that there was a place I could go to see one. However, it started to rain, so we hiked quickly to the boat pick up point. I waited in the rain for awhile, then my guide put me on a boat and told me to ask about the tiger when i got there. The whole adventure was a little comical. Here i was, alone on a rickety canoe with 5 peruvian workers who don't speak English, heading down the amazon (to where, I have no idea), to see a man about a jaguar. When I get there, the guy at the dock tells me to go up some mud stairs, where I'm greeted by a group of children emerging from a bunch of shacks, each children carrying some baby animal from the Amazon. We had baby monkeys, baby 3-toed sloths, baby parrots, and a baby jaguar! I'm sure that there were so many animal rights abuses going on, but it was still so cool. I even got to hold the jaguar in my arms! Totally worth the adventure.

Back in Leticia, I finally got to take off my mud boots (of which I had two left feet), and relax again. I went out for a few drinks with some other people from the hostel. We got 3 mil caipirinhas and talked about our travels. There was a guy from Germany, 3 people from Switzerland, and two girls from Ireland. It was really neat to hear their perspectives on Colombia and South America and where they were headed. The next day, I did a full walking tour of the area. I spent the morning in Tabatinga, Brazil for breakfast. Then I wandered through the market back in Leticia, which leads right up to the Amazon River. So, I sat for awhile and people-watched, watching the boats dock and unload goods for the market, and taking a bunch of pictures of the daily goings-on. Then i did a little shopping in Leticia and sat in Santander park for awhile and read. It was a really nice afternoon. The whole trip was fabulous and I would do it again in a heart beat. It was the perfect way to adjust myself back to Colombia and remind me why I love this country so much. I'm definitely not ready to be done here. In fact, I'm already starting to worry that 4-5 more months won't be enough. :( A great vacation. A perfect break.

Waka Waka ¡eh! ¡eh! ¡esto es áfrica!.... the World Cup bridges cultures

I would be lying if I said that there weren't times that I feel light-years away from home and completely disconnected from all my friends and family. Being abroad is hard. But that only makes events like the World Cup so much more comforting and awesome. I go on Facebook, and I find friends who are watching the same game at 5:30 in the morning in South Korea and 2:30 in the afternoon in the US. When it was time for the US-England match, I had friends watching in a pub in England, a bar in Germany, a living room in Thailand, and a party in the US and across Colombia. I, myself, had gone with some friends to find just about the most American bar in all of Barranquilla. We sat in chairs shaped like soccer, basketball, and American footballs, surrounded by American sports memorabilia and feeling like we were home. Even in the American bar, there were Colombians, Germans, Americans, and Brits, all cheering for different teams. It was a really cool experience. Just like when you look at the moon or the stars and know that everywhere people are looking at the same sky, I really had never felt so connected to everyone. With even North Korea represented, you can rest assured that when politics, economics, and mass communication fail, you can leave it to sports and the World Cup to bring everyone together.

Ironically, not only do I feel closer to home and my friends around the world with the World Cup, but I feel closer to Colombia as well. While Colombia didn't make the Cup this year, there is no shortage of World Cup enthusiasm. We took periods off from classes to watch the first game; we crowded into the gym during medienda to catch what we could of the latest match between Portugal and Côte d’Ivoire. The whole country is wearing jerseys, cheering on their favorite teams (usually South American) and feeling a huge sense of pride to be a part of it. Shakira even sang the theme song for the Cup, Waka Waka, calling everyone to dance for one Goal: to promote universal education. I may be far away from home right now, but I'm part of something great. Let the mundial madness continue!

PS - you can't miss the FPD 3rd and 4th graders doing the Waka Waka dance (some of my babies!) They are fabulous. see below (or if its easier, here is youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIFC0G1MO1Q)

It's All Greek to Me.... the language learning curve

His face was clearly distressed. His brow was furled and his eyes narrow as he paced back and forth in front of his home, dust flying. When I saw him, I knew I was in trouble. He had been expecting me. and I was late.

Joel was fiery, energetic, and (usually) patient. We could do anything together: read, play ball, or tell stories about life and the way things were. He could tell the same story a thousand times, and maintain the same excitement and passion as the first. Whenever I had a bad day, I just needed to think about his smile and unending optimism, and I knew I would feel better. He was my lifeline. He was also four years old. And today, he was not feeling so understanding.

As soon as he saw me, he maintained his look of displeasure long enough for me to understand what I’d done, and then instantly broke into a toothless grin. Before I knew it, he was running into my arms, pointing inside, and jabbering on about his latest conquest, involving a bug and a stick. I was actually here today to tutor his older sister, who was currently failing my class. Originally, when I had imagined myself tutoring, I had hoped it would be with teenagers or adults, looking to practice their already-decent English and willing to pay for it. I mean, I am a volunteer and a little extra spending money would have been lovely. And the company of an older crowd couldn’t hurt either. However, when Joel’s mother had asked me how much I charged, I couldn’t utter anything besides “nada.” How could I possibly charge a family who had cooked me lunch and taken me to the beach without a thought of cost? And who, I should also add, did not have a functioning toilet. I couldn’t. obviously.

So here I sat, Joel in my lap, trying to explain the use of the sentence “I am wearing…” to a smiling 5^th grade girl without a clue. The whole affair made me really think about language, perspective, and choices. If you had told me a year ago that I would be here, in Colombia, in a house where no one spoke English, I would probably have laughed. I came to Colombia without a word of Spanish, and no overwhelming talent for picking up languages on the fly. To this day I understand maybe 30% of what people say to me. Still, against my better judgment, I continue to go to lunches at students’ homes. I still try to talk to families and spend time with my students after school. This is all because I’ve come to learn in my 4 months here so far, that language is not just a barrier. It’s an opportunity. A chance to learn and a chance to connect with someone using whatever tools you have available. It’s not about how quickly you can form your sentences or whether you use the perfect vocabulary or idioms. It’s about effort. It’s the time you take to sit down and listen. It’s the message. The smiles you witness when an understanding has been found. For me, Spanish is a source of immense frustration, pleasure, challenge, and accomplishment. Compared to the other volunteers here in Barranquilla, my skills are terribly lacking and I am constantly confused and embarrassed on a regular basis. But I'm also learning. I'm making friends. and I'm getting there. and that's what counts.

The same is true with for my English students. When we started, they knew absolutely nothing. Now they are actually learning vocabulary and trying to use it. They are making sentences (sometimes half in English and half in Spanish) but they are learning. When visitors come, they are eager to use their warm up questions on the new faces. "Where are you from?" "What is your name?" "How old are you?" The amount that they still don't know is certainly overwhelming, but it doesn't stop them from trying. The truth is, I learn a lot from their enthusiasm. From teaching them English, I have not only picked up new Spanish vocabulary, but I have watched their eagerness to learn and to try and it has really been a source of motivation for me.

So here I sit, trying to channel my inner Spanish to help Isabel understand how English is similar. Neighborhood kids are waving from outside, visitors are constantly passing by, and joel is jammering away. It's probably a billion degrees and bugs are everywhere. But this is my life. Language acquisition is certainly a difficult process, marked by a great deal of trial and error. But if my kids are willing to listen to me and try to learn, then I owe them the same patience, both with them and with myself. So, with dictionary in tow, we trudge on. Me with my Spanish and Isabel with her English. Learning from each other and growing together. And with Joel giggling by my side (as an ant crawls up my arm), I now know that some things are the same in every language.

they say to really understand a man, you must walk a mile in his shoes...

So here are where my shoes have taken me. Lately, I've got to thinking a lot about transportation in Colombia (and apparently watching too much Sex adn the City on my computer since my last two posts have started with "I've got to thinking.") But that is neither here not there. In a country that is always changing, yet still behind the times in so many ways, I thought I would enlighten you on the many transportation choices available to one living in La Playa and the joys that await you with each:

(1) Walking -
First and foremost, your own two feet are easily the cheapest option, and often the most entertaining. Most things that you really need are within walking distance in La Playa: our school, tiendas, panaderias, churches, Atlantico University, neighborhoods to run in, even a gym run out of a small shack-like building. Plus, there are people, animals, food carts, and any number of adventures that await you if you choose this method. However, you must take into account the many obstacles. First, beware that if you are a lady, you will inevitably encounter a large number of admirers on your trek. Whether you are heading into the La Playa proper or out towards the Universities, men will whistle, call out compliments, try to use any English words they know (I even had a guy yell July! once), make noises, or even block your way for attention. In most instances, it is rather harmless, semi-flattering (if you choose to see it that way), and easy to tune out after awhile. Every now and then you will get an over-zealous admirer who wants to make your walk a little more difficult, but its all part of the adventure. For some, anyway.
Then, you must remember the live animals you will encounter. These could include anything from dogs and cats, to birds, horses, donkeys, chickens, etc. One of my children even had a hamster on my walk home yesterday. It is also entirely possible to encounter children with dead animals, as I have on several occasions. So be on guard... :)
Next, you must consider the ever changing traffic patterns. Calle 14, the main road through La Playa, has been under construction since March. Now I want to assure you that I use the word "construction" loosely. Mostly, men have been sitting around, digging up the perfectly adequate cement road, creating a mess, moving dirt around, and forcing both cars and motos to drive on the sidewalk. Now, if this doesn't sound exciting enough for you, just wait. They enjoy moving the dirt in such a way as to change the traffic pattern daily. So you never know when you are going to get run over or when the traffic will be "directed" to the other side. Furthermore, the construction creates an amazing amount of dust and dirt in the air. Like I said, always an adventure.
Lastly, and probably the worst obstacle of all, is the weather. The heat in the afternoon is downright unbearable! The sun is beating down, my hair is a sweaty mess, my clothes and soaked with sweat, and some days I am practically a puddle on the floor by the time I get home. Often, I wonder if I am even going to make it. However, we did find a nice little shortcut, htorugh a neighborhood. It is lined with nice trees (many of them with mangos!) and provides a lovely two blocks of shade and protection from the crazy construction mess. Then, when it rains, oh dear. The streets flood, the "sidewalks" get muddy, and the rains ensure that you are completely soaked by the time you read your destination, even with an umbrella. However, if you make sure to avoid the midday sun, the heat is tolerable (at least you get a nice tan ;), and the rains can often be avoided with a little patience. just gotta learn to adjust.
However, there are some perks to this whole walking thing, besides the exercise. First, there are the food and fruit stands. You can't stop for a fresh fruit juice or inexpensive snack if you are in a cab or on a moto. Nothing like a fruit juice popsicle or fresh maracuya to make the walk a little more pleasant. Secondly, you get to meet the neighbors! It's nice knowing who lives around you. You get to know them, say hi, hear about their days. Sometimes, complete strangers will even offer you some fruit from their yard (its currently mango season and I can't get enough of the mango gifts). it's acutally really nice seeing people you know and having people recognize you. it makes you a real part of the community and reminds me, at least, why I love this place so much. The people. With a little music to set the mood, it can be a very pleasant experience.
Still, if all this "adventure" is a little too much for you, and you have the money, never you fear. There are definitely other choices just an arm's reach away...

(2) Bus -
Then there are buses. Now I never considered myself a "bus person" before coming to Colombia. the invariable schedules and complicated routes left me with way too much to remember. I would much prefer a fairly regular train schedule with a list of stops or a metro map any day. However, since these options do not exist, buses are basically essential is you are without a car, poor (like me), and have any desire to actually go into Barranquilla city (or anywhere outside La Playa for that matter). Therefore, I have learned to love them, with their own set of quirks. One good thing about the buses is that they run fairly frequently (unless, of course, you are in a hurry) and you can pick a bus up at any point along its route; you don't need to walk all the way to a designated stop. Also, buses can take you almost anywhere, if you just know the right combination for relatively cheap. A typical bus costs $1,300 pesos ($1,400 on Sundays and holidays) regardless of where you get on or how far you are going (and thats about 65 cents). This makes it fairly economical and pretty simple to figure out what you owe. A few weeks in La Playa and the bus will become your best friend.
However, buses are definitely not entirely smooth sailing. First, many buses are not marked with their exact route, and what small, hand-written sign they do have is probably not legible until the bus is right in front of you (and thus too late to make it stop). Therefore, you need to know esactly what you are looking for. Second, the bus will pull away the second you step on, so hold on tight and have your money ready, because you need to pay before sitting down.. Also, be aware that buses are often crowded and not air conditioned, so try to sit near a window if at all possible. If you are fortunate to find an empty bus, don't be surprised if the people who get on after you want to sit in the seat next to you, despite all of the available seats in the rest of the bus. All part of the adventure. Ok, now that you are safely in your seat, pay attention! Because the bus will only stop when you tell it to. So if you aren't watching where you are, you very well may miss your stop and end up in God-knows-where. When you are close, make sure to give yourself enough time to maneuver to the back of the bus, push the button above the door, and wait to be let out. Then you're done. Easy, peazy, lemon-squeezy.

(3) Moto
Another popular option is the Moto. Motos can come in two forms. One is your typical, run-of-the-mill motorcycle, some of which even offer the option of wearing a helmet. The other is a wagon-looking contraption, with a bench-like bubble attached to the back of the motorcycle. Motos are typically a step up in price, but they more than make up for it in speed. They can take you just about any distance and get you there quickly - just make sure you don't value your hair style that day. plus, it is super fun!
However, they do come with some form of discomfort (I mean, it is a motorcycle )and its fair share of possible hazards. First, it puts you very close to another person on a very hot day, and with bags it can be fun trying to balance. Furthermore, I, myself, have a lovely looking scar on my leg from a burn I received almost three months ago, from stepping off the wrong side and burning my leg on the muffler (please exit to the left...). Another volunteer at a different location had a moto go so fast that when it took a turn, it skidded out and left him with his own battle wounds (simply remember despacio por favor!) Also, as another volunteer reminded me, sharing helmets can certainly open you up to lice or any other form of health issues. Entonces, efficient, fun, but slightly risky. But what's life without a little risk, right?

Below is a short jaunt on a moto through parts of La Playa (with one of my students and her dad). This is on of the mroe major roads, and once you leave, you are subjuct to crazy terrain, dirt, gravel, and rocks. Therefore, I could only film a little before holding on beat my desire for a good movie. But it gives you an idea.



(4) Cab
Perhaps the MOST efficient, yet most expensive is to take a cab. Unlike in Bogota, you do not need to call a cab ahead of time. They are just about everywhere and fairly reasonable, especially with a few people. You can comfortably fit 4 passengers in a typical cab, and some will even let you squeeze 5 (but they risk a hefty fine if they get caught). A typical cab can get you into the city for about $5,000-7,000 pesos (about $2.50-3.50) and if you need to go a little farther or its later at night, you are looking at about $10,000-12,000. The buses stop running around 9:30-9:45 PM so if you are considering a late night in the city, cabs are your only option (or you can just live it up until the buses start running again at 4-4:30 AM).
BENEFITS = speed, time, comfort, the radio, sometimes air conditioning, no weird people to have to maneuver around, etc.
DRAWBACKS = price
RULES = always negotiate a price before getting in the cab, and its perfectly reasonable to barter. Second, if you are with a colombian, let them do the talking. The second the driver realizes you are not from around here, they will raise the price like crazy. Third, pay attention, because many cab drivers have absolutely no idea where they are going. As odd as it seems, many drivers do not know the city at all. even with an address or the name of a well-known establishment. I had one cab driver struggle to drive us five blocks. It was late and we didn't feel comfortable walking in a part of the city we didn't know very well, but we ended up calling a friend to give the driver directions - back from the 15 blocks out the way we had traveled. It was a mess and took forever. Luckily we had time and got an excellent tour around el centro in the process!

(5) Friends with cars
And then there is the elusive friend with a car. This, while difficult to find, is the best optino by far. You get all the perks of a cab (speed, radio choices, air conditioning, direct routes, and a usually knowledgable driver, without the cost). It's awesome. However, most people are not lucky enough to enjoy this luxury. So for the other times when your friends are too busy to play chauffer, you are stuck with the bus or cab.


And those are your options. Clearly, La Playa and Barranquilla is just a mecca of transportation options, you just have to be open to a little adventure.

Just another day...

So I got to thinking lately about how I am viewing my time here and how I portray the experience to other people. A friend asked me recently how I could be so happy here if all I ever do is talk about my frustrations. On this blog, I probably go a little in the opposite direction, talking about the amazing things, and leaving out the challenges. Ultimately, the question at hand is: If I spend a good part of every day completely and totally frustrated, am I lying to myself when I say that I am happy here?

The truth is, life is really, really hard. I do not speak Spanish (well) at all. I am constantly struggling to understand and be understood. I have classes with 40-50 kids in them with no wealth of teaching resources to draw from. Some of these classes don't seem to be learning a thing. or have any desire to even try. I am exhausted all the time. I went from a place where I had tons of different groups of friends in nearby cities to a place where I know almost no one. I miss my family and my comfort foods and activities from home. Sometimes it takes everything in me to keep from calling up my best friends from home and trying to plan a night out on the town. Plus, I am not making any money, I'm draining my savings, and I have no idea what I am going to do with my life when I get back. Some days, I wonder what the heck I am accomplishing this year.

However, with all that said, I can still honestly say that I am truly and completely happy here. I know. It makes absolutely no sense. But some days I can't help but smile. Whenever I am in the midst of my frustrations and I'm counting down the days until the next weekend, all I seem to need is one smile on a child's face or one lightbulb moment in one of my classes and I remember. I live in Colombia! I have a whole new continent at my fingertips! And I am doing exactly what I love to do. Helping children. Learning about a new culture. And challenging myself every day. I actually love the challenges. I really do! Coming up against these obstacles and fighting my way through is what makes me who I am. While at the time, they may seem insurmountable, I can feel it making me a stronger person and I am learning a lot about myself and the person I want to be. Plus the feeling you get when you realize you are making progress is irreplaceable. The fact is, a lot of my classes are actually learning English!! I have students trying to form sentences and actually using vocabulary they learned. They will chase me down in the hallways or interupt my lesson to ask me how to say any number of words in English, and then actually try to use them. My Field Director was particularly impressed during my evaluation with my use of mostly English in my teaching and the progress the students had made in being able to understand. So apparently I am not completely wasting my time in the classroom.

Furthermore, I am loving the time I get to spend with them outside of class. Most meriendas, or snack time breaks, me and a group of girls go curl up on the bean bags in the library and read stories in English and Spanish. After school, we paint our nails and draw pictures, all the while sharing stories about life and family. I walk kids home from school, get to know the neighborhood, and meet their parents. One parent even thanked me for spending time with her son because he doesn't have a lot of friends. And when I asked why, she explained that the kids in this area are bad news. So now twice a week , we play soccer (and I use the term "play" loosely in my case) with a group of boys after my afternoon English class. We play till it gets dark and wander home together. By the time my class is over, it is 5 o'clock and I'm exhausted, but those two hours kicking, throwing, and playing are just what I need to recover from the stresses of teaching. I wouldn't trade them for anything.

Today marked another interesting adventure for me. A student had invited me to her house for lunch. While my better instincts told me that my Spanish skills were not up to this, and that I should just save us all the stress and awkwardness by politely declining, I honestly didn't know how to say no and not insult her. Besides, the other half of me was secretly excited by this prospect. So I went out, grabbed a dessert, and got ready for my afternoon. My student, Isabel, even called me early because she just couldn't wait any longer. And when, upon my arrival at their house, her younger brother of 3 years gave me a toothless grin and ran into my arms, I knew I had made the right decision. We had an amazing time. We ate a delicious lunch of fish, rice, platanos, salad, apples, and avocado. It took all of my might to finish the plate, it was so full. I looked through photo albums of faded photographs, played games, drew pictures, and received a lovely makeover complete with makeup and a new hairstyle. We watched some TV, and to show me that they had movies in English, I had the difficult choice between "What am I going to do with my life?" or "How to make decisions that honor God." Let's just say I feel much more enlightened now. After hanging out at the house, we took a moto through La Playa, waving at my students as I sped by, ending up at the beach near the mangroves. We played in the water, looked for seashells, played with the hermit crabs, watched a horse get a bath, cheered on a rousing game of water volleyball, and tossed a ball around on the shore. Needless to say, these clothes will now be going in the wash. The Spanish was hard and there were definite times that I struggled. But I did it. I made it. and every time I do something like this i will get better. Will I ever be fluent? I think its safe to say no. But I'm challenging myself and I'm making progress. It is exactly this sense of accomplishment, this growth, this progress that keeps me smiling. And every time I struggle with the challenges of being a teacher or living so far from home, I draw on this warm feeling and remind myself that this is what I love. Because it is. There is nowhere in the world I would rather be. And i wouldn't trade it for all the American comfort food or cushy adult apartments in the world. I promise. :)

Over the rivers and through the woods to Semana Santa I go....

HOW HAS SO MUCH TIME GONE BY?? I honestly cannot believe its been over a month since my last post, and a month since Semana Santa. I have been super busy so I definitely have a ton to talk about. One of my post-spring break vows is to be a better blogger, or a more frequent blogger at least. So far I am failing, but this will mark the official beginning of my new-found dedication. Since I can't talk about anything else until I get Semana Santa out of the way, I better get started. :)

Semana Santa was Holy Week and our spring break. 3/27-4/4. And it was AWESOME. I decided to go on a relaxing excursion with Lindsay, another volunteer, to wander around Santa Marta and Tayrona National Park. Here is my best account of the amazingness that ensued. Sorry if this ends up a little long.

SANTA MARTA

So we spent two nights in Santa Marta, a medium-sized city on the coast. It's a relatively popular tourist destination, with a huge market, old churches, and a lovely park and beach right at the city's edge. It's exactly what I think we were looking for. We picked up the bus Friday after school with the rest of the gang heading to Santa Marta to leave for a trek to Ciudad Perdida, the Lost City. It involves a 6 day hike through the jungle to see the remains of an old village. I know both Lindsay and I had considered going along, but after our own relaxing adventures, we were glad we stayed.

We hung out with the rest of the gang for Friday evening. Grabbed dinner, walked by the water, then hit the hay. We woke up on Saturday in time to see the group off on their trek and then grabbed breakfast. We got breakfast every morning at a small restaurant on the water, with pint glasses full of fresh fruit juice. With the sound of the water and a perfect view of the city waking up, it was perhaps one of my favorite parts of our Santa Marta weekend. With the rest of the day, we explored the city, wandered the market, sat and read by the water, and watched a very strange man do a dance interpretation of yoga that both amused and frightened me at the same time. It was lovely. relaxing. perfect.

Sunday was Palm Sunday. Our "shuttle" to Tayrona National Park didn't leave until 10:30 from our hostel, so we had all morning to wander. We got our usual breakfast by the water. Then we went in the direction of the market again. Instead, we found several church services either in progress or just ending. It was awesome. Everyone had their palms folded into the shape of crosses. They also had, though, actual plants in plastic pots and dry flowers, which was interesting. They raised their palms outside in prayer (some people pots and all) and then began a procession through the town. It was really really cool to witness and be a small part of. I love the passion of people at church. Like nowhere else in the world exists at that moment. It's very powerful. After that, we had used up all our free time, so we headed back to the hostel to await our shuttle to our next destination.


PARQUE TAYRONA

After that, we jumped in our shuttle to Parque Tayrona, which was a little farther away than I had realized. I had also not realized that our shuttle would be a dilapidated old taxi with a crazy driver who kept stopping for gas, even though it was only like a 45 minutes drive. It was totally worth the ride, though, as well as the 45 minute hike to our campsite in the hottest hour of the day with our bags. The park was beautiful. We stayed in the slightly more calm area of Arricefes, with tall palm trees, cool breezes, and tents and hammocks that enjoyed the sounds of the crashing surf 24/7. Can you say heaven? There was even a reasonable restaurant on the beach, complete with full fresh juice bar. Done and done.

However, you cannot swim in the water at Arricefes. So the first thing we did after we unpacked by our hammocks, was to wander in the direction of La Piscina, a calmer beach with water suitable for swimming. And it was only a 20 minute hike away. Perfect. However, 45 mintues later, we still had not found it. We were considering turning around, when we came across Cabo San Juan, another area with places to stay, and our new favorite hang-out spot. It had two beaches, one on the ocean and one on a calmer bay, beautiful water (with swimming), palm trees, and a cool gazebo with hammocks on a cliff overlooking both beaches. It was amazing. needless to say we made that 45 minutes hike every day we were in the park. it was that cool. So we hung out until it started to get dark, and made our way back home for a little journal-writing and reading by the beach. It was soooo relaxing.

The next day we decided to brave the 2.5 hour hike to Pueblito, the remains of an ancient village built by the Tayrona tribes in the 4th century, high up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. With emphasis on the HIGH up part. We attempted to leave early to avoid the midday sun, but didn't end up getting going until about 9:30. In fact, the park has rules that you can't even begin the hike after 1 pm. We made it with plenty of time, but perhaps if we had realized how much of an incline this hike enjoyed, we may have tried a little harder to leave earlier. With the heat and the altitude, I thought I was going to die. However, it was totally worth it. After a small scare that led us to believe that the town was actually a pile of rocks, we continued on and found the actual remains. And they are amazing. The whole town is actually rather large, with the Kogi tribe (descendants of the original Tayrona tribes) still living in the area. These people were gorgeous in and of themselves. We wished we had brought a picnic, but since we hadn't eaten lunch, we couldn't spend too much time up there. After about a half an hour, we headed back, did out victory dance, and grabbed some lunch at the restaurant in Cabo and prepared for a relaxing afternoon hanging out by the beach. :)

Our last day at the park, we spent completely lazy. Still aching from the hike the day before, we spent the morning in Arricefes, eating the last of our food stashes, reading and enjoying the amazing greenery. When we finally felt up for hiking again, we headed back to Cabo for our last afternoon of swimming and surf. By the evening, the Colombian Semana Santa crowds had invaded and our quaint dinner spot had exploded with people. Needless to say, I think we were ready to leave the park. After a calm evening by the beach, we hit the hay and prepared to move on to our last spot the following morning.

TAGANGA

So our last vacation spot of choice was the super quaint diving village of Taganga. While we had heard mixed reviews of the place in the past, we fell in love instantly. It had the sprawling Sierra Nevada Mountains of parque Tayrona, with the beach town feeling of Santa Marta. There were juice stands within an arm's reach of any spot on the the main drag, and plenty of bars and restaurants to keep you busy for any amount of time. However, there really is only one restaurant you need to know when vacationing here. Sure, the fresh fish on the beach is to die for, and margarita's makes the best baguette sandwiches on the coast. But if you only have one meal in Taganga, it has to be at Casa de Felipe. Picture quaint cobble stone patios, rustic wooden tables, and reasonably priced food that will make your mouth water. Filet Mignon for under $10, seafood pasta, gourmet soups and sandwiches, fish fillets, all cooked fresh to order and all like straight out of an expensive 5 star restaurant. You can spend your day diving (at just about the cheapest place in the world to do so), but don't let your night pass you by without dinner here. I, probably embarassingly, ate every single dinner here during the time i was here. I was adventurous during lunch, but dinner belonged to Felipe. No Contest.

The first night was Lindsay's only night here, so we had to celebrate the end of our exciting adventure together. We actually spent the day very lazily. We went for a walk along the beach, read in the hammocks overlooking the mountains, and chatted with other travelers, of which there was more here than in either of our previous locations. We even found other WorldTeach volunteers from Ecuador. small world. So when it was time for dinner, a bunch of us travelers ventured to Felipe to see what all the fuss was about. Some amazing dishes later (Filet Mignon for me!), minus an incident with a cat and a few badly placed jokes, we had an amazing evening. good food, relaxation, and good company. All-in-all a great end to our week together.

The next morning, Lindsay headed out to meet a friend coming to Barranquilla from the States, and I began the "alone time" portion of my break, a chance to reflect on my time here so far, set new goals for myself, and just gather my thoughts before falling back into the grind on Monday. I Or so I thought. I finished my book, followed by a trip to the main beach alone, and somehow ran into someone we had met from Santa Marta, small world. Then walking home, I ran into the other Barranquilla volunteers, coming back from their hike to Ciudad Perdida, a lost city similar to Pueblita but much further into the mountains. They were preparing for dinner themselves. So I ran back to my hostel, took a dip in the pool, took a shower, and decided to head to Casa de Felipe with my friends. I mean, if they were going to try the restaurant for the first time, I might as well give them some suggestions and show them the way. ;) Plus, I got to hear about their hike and try the Seafood pasta with Lobster Sauce. it was a win - win. We then walked back into town for 5 mil ($2.50) cocktails. As if I thought the night couldn't get any better. And we ended with some dancing at a club on the beach. basically the perfect night. However, my attempts at self reflection were kinda forgotten.

So the next day (Friday), I decided to bypass the main beach, and hike to one of the many small sparsely populated coves along the coast. However, first I had to pass by another crowded beach called Playa Grande, a Colombian favorite just a short uphill hike or boat ride away from Taganga. I was halfway across the beach on my hike when a teacher from the school comes running up to me. He explains that he had yelled to me the day before, but I apparently hadn't heard him. He invites me to meet his family and we end up having lunch and going for a boat ride together. It was really nice. A bit more Spanish conversation and a bit less alone time than I had hoped for, but all in all, who can complain about someone buying you a fresh fish dinner on the water? We even took the boat back at the end of the afternoon, instead of having to hike in the heat, which I appreciated. However, this was my last night in Taganga. Therefore, I had to go back to Casa de Felipe for one last sendoff dinner. I was fully prepared to eat alone, when another guy from the hostel explained he was going anyway and we should go together. Of course. why not. We also ran into the other WorldTeach people from Ecuador, who looked at us like we were on some kind of date, which made it all the more funny. I didn't care, I had my Filet Mignon and someone to talk to. I was happy.

The next day, I was leaving at 1:30 on a bus back to Barranquilla. So I got up early, determined to find these private coves. I hiked down to the water, grabbed a fruit juice, and began what became a two hour hike along the coast. It was amazing, and I would have kept going if I hadn't known that I didn't have much time. I found a cove with few people and set up my spot. I read a little, swam in the crystal clear water with the fishes, and did some thinking. Ultimately, a successful last morning. I even headed back with enough time to take a dip in the pool, grab lunch at the baguette place, and pack my things. I actually briefly considered extending my stay as the boys in the pool explained that the hostel was having a bbq and party by the pool that night. What could possibly be so important in Barranquilla that couldn't wait until Sunday? However, buses were hard to come by Semana Santa weekend, so I stuck to my plan and made it home by around 5 (much later than anticipated, but then again, this is Colombia).

Semana Santa = Success.
I can only hope I make it back to the park and taganga again some time soon!

"How can you just sit there and not help the children?" And we couldn't. We just couldn't sit there and not help the children.

So, I wrote this whole post about 4 days ago. it was fabulous. It talked all about Kristen's visit and the exciting things we did. It went through the highs and lows of the week and discussed the things that I learned. I posted it. Reread it. it wasn't half bad. In short, I was pleased.

Now, I return to continue my exciting Colombian saga, only to realize that my last post is not here. at all. gone. Perhaps it was the internet. or maybe just Colombia reminding me that absolutely nothing works here the way you expect it to. Lesson plans. School schedules. In any case, I will have to put off my topics for today and try and recap a little about what i talked about before. It won't be the same, but I'll do my best. Heck, maybe it will be better!

So Kristen, my sister, visited last week!! It was soooo nice having her here. I got to show her all of my favorite things about Colombia and it definitely reminded me about why I love it here. However, her visit also reminded me a little of home, and the things I left behind. Even watching her miss the little things about daily American life (like air conditioning), left me with a bitter taste in my mouth. However, she also brought a suitcase full of American goodies, so I recovered quickly. Looking back, after two and a half months here, the following is a summary of the things I absolutely adore about Colombia, and the things I miss about home:

Things I miss about the US:
- family and friends
- consistent electricity and internet
- the ability to take a hot shower (I realize its 90+ degrees here but I'm weird)
- air conditioning
- my token comfort foods (I love rice and beans, but they can only take me so far. I need some fresh milk and homemade mac and cheese in my life)
- the American love of schedules and keeping people informed (I'm a planner)

Things I adore about Colombia:
- The kids, who are always full of love, hugs, kisses, laughter, gifts, and encouragement (exactly what I need)
- The fresh fruit and vegetables!!
- Street food (not exactly the most healthy, but nothing beats a good empanada or chuzo)
- Crepes and Waffles (noticing a pattern? I'm in trouble, but don't worry.... its the good kind :) )
- the Colombian people are the most friendly and helpful I've ever met
- the Colombian love of holidays
- Latin dancing! (even if my own skill falls embarrassingly short)
- being in a place with so many interesting, historical, naturally beautiful places to explore
- the beach (nothing like the rolling waves to do some good thinking, and sunbathing)
- the ability to challenge myself (it can be hard, but that's what life is for)

A day doesn't go by without me finding myself frustrated by some change in plans or some situation in which I can't express myself the way that I want to. Still, a day doesn't pass that I am not extremely happy and thankful to be here. I am continually learning about myself and feeling myself grow in new and different ways. In the span of a few minutes, I will leave a classroom in which my lesson-plan flopped, no one paid attention, I broke up two fights, and left a child crying, feeling like a complete failure as a teacher. Then suddenly, I will run into a favorite student, smiling from ear to ear. He will inevitably yell "Profe!" run up, give me a hug, and ask me to teach him another question in English. Or grin while he repeats one of our silly inside jokes. or perhaps I will see another favorite student, who can't speak a word of English, but has the patience of a saint while i stumble through the Spanish I do know, and even calls me her mother. And I can't help but smile. This is why I came here. And I think that my sister got a taste of this while she was here too.

Sure, we visited Playa Blanca, a picturesque Caribbean beach, and Cartagena, a gorgeous colonial port city. We did touristy things in Barranquilla, like go to the market and out dancing, and American-like things, like go to the mall and see a movie. We even ate at Crepes and Waffles (my favorite restaurant)... twice. We crammed a lot into the short week she was here. However, I think that going to school with me one day is a memory she will definitely carry with her for a long time. She was sick with a bad sunburn and the usual Colombian digestive challenges, but the kids adored her! They showered her with gifts and drawings, some even better than any I had ever recieved. They hugged her, kissed her, asked her questions, danced for her, even escorted her hand-in-hand around school. One class even said they liked her better than me, which I won't take personally since she wasn't making them learn anything. Sometimes I think that God put kids on earth to remind us of all the good in the world, and why we are here. To think of the situations some of these kids deal with at home, its hard to believe that they are still so happy and excited. I don't know how you can meet these kids, know these kids, and not want to help. Not want to give everything you have, every piece of yourself to make their lives easier. Some days, I can't even bear the thought of leaving them. I hope that Kristen got a small dose of this. So when she looks back on the crazy country without air conditioning and where you can't flush the toilet paper, this place with beautiful beaches and friendly people, the country where few people speak English and communicating can be a struggle, I hope that she remembers the children. and how love can transcend any language barrier.