It's All Greek to Me.... the language learning curve

His face was clearly distressed. His brow was furled and his eyes narrow as he paced back and forth in front of his home, dust flying. When I saw him, I knew I was in trouble. He had been expecting me. and I was late.

Joel was fiery, energetic, and (usually) patient. We could do anything together: read, play ball, or tell stories about life and the way things were. He could tell the same story a thousand times, and maintain the same excitement and passion as the first. Whenever I had a bad day, I just needed to think about his smile and unending optimism, and I knew I would feel better. He was my lifeline. He was also four years old. And today, he was not feeling so understanding.

As soon as he saw me, he maintained his look of displeasure long enough for me to understand what I’d done, and then instantly broke into a toothless grin. Before I knew it, he was running into my arms, pointing inside, and jabbering on about his latest conquest, involving a bug and a stick. I was actually here today to tutor his older sister, who was currently failing my class. Originally, when I had imagined myself tutoring, I had hoped it would be with teenagers or adults, looking to practice their already-decent English and willing to pay for it. I mean, I am a volunteer and a little extra spending money would have been lovely. And the company of an older crowd couldn’t hurt either. However, when Joel’s mother had asked me how much I charged, I couldn’t utter anything besides “nada.” How could I possibly charge a family who had cooked me lunch and taken me to the beach without a thought of cost? And who, I should also add, did not have a functioning toilet. I couldn’t. obviously.

So here I sat, Joel in my lap, trying to explain the use of the sentence “I am wearing…” to a smiling 5^th grade girl without a clue. The whole affair made me really think about language, perspective, and choices. If you had told me a year ago that I would be here, in Colombia, in a house where no one spoke English, I would probably have laughed. I came to Colombia without a word of Spanish, and no overwhelming talent for picking up languages on the fly. To this day I understand maybe 30% of what people say to me. Still, against my better judgment, I continue to go to lunches at students’ homes. I still try to talk to families and spend time with my students after school. This is all because I’ve come to learn in my 4 months here so far, that language is not just a barrier. It’s an opportunity. A chance to learn and a chance to connect with someone using whatever tools you have available. It’s not about how quickly you can form your sentences or whether you use the perfect vocabulary or idioms. It’s about effort. It’s the time you take to sit down and listen. It’s the message. The smiles you witness when an understanding has been found. For me, Spanish is a source of immense frustration, pleasure, challenge, and accomplishment. Compared to the other volunteers here in Barranquilla, my skills are terribly lacking and I am constantly confused and embarrassed on a regular basis. But I'm also learning. I'm making friends. and I'm getting there. and that's what counts.

The same is true with for my English students. When we started, they knew absolutely nothing. Now they are actually learning vocabulary and trying to use it. They are making sentences (sometimes half in English and half in Spanish) but they are learning. When visitors come, they are eager to use their warm up questions on the new faces. "Where are you from?" "What is your name?" "How old are you?" The amount that they still don't know is certainly overwhelming, but it doesn't stop them from trying. The truth is, I learn a lot from their enthusiasm. From teaching them English, I have not only picked up new Spanish vocabulary, but I have watched their eagerness to learn and to try and it has really been a source of motivation for me.

So here I sit, trying to channel my inner Spanish to help Isabel understand how English is similar. Neighborhood kids are waving from outside, visitors are constantly passing by, and joel is jammering away. It's probably a billion degrees and bugs are everywhere. But this is my life. Language acquisition is certainly a difficult process, marked by a great deal of trial and error. But if my kids are willing to listen to me and try to learn, then I owe them the same patience, both with them and with myself. So, with dictionary in tow, we trudge on. Me with my Spanish and Isabel with her English. Learning from each other and growing together. And with Joel giggling by my side (as an ant crawls up my arm), I now know that some things are the same in every language.

they say to really understand a man, you must walk a mile in his shoes...

So here are where my shoes have taken me. Lately, I've got to thinking a lot about transportation in Colombia (and apparently watching too much Sex adn the City on my computer since my last two posts have started with "I've got to thinking.") But that is neither here not there. In a country that is always changing, yet still behind the times in so many ways, I thought I would enlighten you on the many transportation choices available to one living in La Playa and the joys that await you with each:

(1) Walking -
First and foremost, your own two feet are easily the cheapest option, and often the most entertaining. Most things that you really need are within walking distance in La Playa: our school, tiendas, panaderias, churches, Atlantico University, neighborhoods to run in, even a gym run out of a small shack-like building. Plus, there are people, animals, food carts, and any number of adventures that await you if you choose this method. However, you must take into account the many obstacles. First, beware that if you are a lady, you will inevitably encounter a large number of admirers on your trek. Whether you are heading into the La Playa proper or out towards the Universities, men will whistle, call out compliments, try to use any English words they know (I even had a guy yell July! once), make noises, or even block your way for attention. In most instances, it is rather harmless, semi-flattering (if you choose to see it that way), and easy to tune out after awhile. Every now and then you will get an over-zealous admirer who wants to make your walk a little more difficult, but its all part of the adventure. For some, anyway.
Then, you must remember the live animals you will encounter. These could include anything from dogs and cats, to birds, horses, donkeys, chickens, etc. One of my children even had a hamster on my walk home yesterday. It is also entirely possible to encounter children with dead animals, as I have on several occasions. So be on guard... :)
Next, you must consider the ever changing traffic patterns. Calle 14, the main road through La Playa, has been under construction since March. Now I want to assure you that I use the word "construction" loosely. Mostly, men have been sitting around, digging up the perfectly adequate cement road, creating a mess, moving dirt around, and forcing both cars and motos to drive on the sidewalk. Now, if this doesn't sound exciting enough for you, just wait. They enjoy moving the dirt in such a way as to change the traffic pattern daily. So you never know when you are going to get run over or when the traffic will be "directed" to the other side. Furthermore, the construction creates an amazing amount of dust and dirt in the air. Like I said, always an adventure.
Lastly, and probably the worst obstacle of all, is the weather. The heat in the afternoon is downright unbearable! The sun is beating down, my hair is a sweaty mess, my clothes and soaked with sweat, and some days I am practically a puddle on the floor by the time I get home. Often, I wonder if I am even going to make it. However, we did find a nice little shortcut, htorugh a neighborhood. It is lined with nice trees (many of them with mangos!) and provides a lovely two blocks of shade and protection from the crazy construction mess. Then, when it rains, oh dear. The streets flood, the "sidewalks" get muddy, and the rains ensure that you are completely soaked by the time you read your destination, even with an umbrella. However, if you make sure to avoid the midday sun, the heat is tolerable (at least you get a nice tan ;), and the rains can often be avoided with a little patience. just gotta learn to adjust.
However, there are some perks to this whole walking thing, besides the exercise. First, there are the food and fruit stands. You can't stop for a fresh fruit juice or inexpensive snack if you are in a cab or on a moto. Nothing like a fruit juice popsicle or fresh maracuya to make the walk a little more pleasant. Secondly, you get to meet the neighbors! It's nice knowing who lives around you. You get to know them, say hi, hear about their days. Sometimes, complete strangers will even offer you some fruit from their yard (its currently mango season and I can't get enough of the mango gifts). it's acutally really nice seeing people you know and having people recognize you. it makes you a real part of the community and reminds me, at least, why I love this place so much. The people. With a little music to set the mood, it can be a very pleasant experience.
Still, if all this "adventure" is a little too much for you, and you have the money, never you fear. There are definitely other choices just an arm's reach away...

(2) Bus -
Then there are buses. Now I never considered myself a "bus person" before coming to Colombia. the invariable schedules and complicated routes left me with way too much to remember. I would much prefer a fairly regular train schedule with a list of stops or a metro map any day. However, since these options do not exist, buses are basically essential is you are without a car, poor (like me), and have any desire to actually go into Barranquilla city (or anywhere outside La Playa for that matter). Therefore, I have learned to love them, with their own set of quirks. One good thing about the buses is that they run fairly frequently (unless, of course, you are in a hurry) and you can pick a bus up at any point along its route; you don't need to walk all the way to a designated stop. Also, buses can take you almost anywhere, if you just know the right combination for relatively cheap. A typical bus costs $1,300 pesos ($1,400 on Sundays and holidays) regardless of where you get on or how far you are going (and thats about 65 cents). This makes it fairly economical and pretty simple to figure out what you owe. A few weeks in La Playa and the bus will become your best friend.
However, buses are definitely not entirely smooth sailing. First, many buses are not marked with their exact route, and what small, hand-written sign they do have is probably not legible until the bus is right in front of you (and thus too late to make it stop). Therefore, you need to know esactly what you are looking for. Second, the bus will pull away the second you step on, so hold on tight and have your money ready, because you need to pay before sitting down.. Also, be aware that buses are often crowded and not air conditioned, so try to sit near a window if at all possible. If you are fortunate to find an empty bus, don't be surprised if the people who get on after you want to sit in the seat next to you, despite all of the available seats in the rest of the bus. All part of the adventure. Ok, now that you are safely in your seat, pay attention! Because the bus will only stop when you tell it to. So if you aren't watching where you are, you very well may miss your stop and end up in God-knows-where. When you are close, make sure to give yourself enough time to maneuver to the back of the bus, push the button above the door, and wait to be let out. Then you're done. Easy, peazy, lemon-squeezy.

(3) Moto
Another popular option is the Moto. Motos can come in two forms. One is your typical, run-of-the-mill motorcycle, some of which even offer the option of wearing a helmet. The other is a wagon-looking contraption, with a bench-like bubble attached to the back of the motorcycle. Motos are typically a step up in price, but they more than make up for it in speed. They can take you just about any distance and get you there quickly - just make sure you don't value your hair style that day. plus, it is super fun!
However, they do come with some form of discomfort (I mean, it is a motorcycle )and its fair share of possible hazards. First, it puts you very close to another person on a very hot day, and with bags it can be fun trying to balance. Furthermore, I, myself, have a lovely looking scar on my leg from a burn I received almost three months ago, from stepping off the wrong side and burning my leg on the muffler (please exit to the left...). Another volunteer at a different location had a moto go so fast that when it took a turn, it skidded out and left him with his own battle wounds (simply remember despacio por favor!) Also, as another volunteer reminded me, sharing helmets can certainly open you up to lice or any other form of health issues. Entonces, efficient, fun, but slightly risky. But what's life without a little risk, right?

Below is a short jaunt on a moto through parts of La Playa (with one of my students and her dad). This is on of the mroe major roads, and once you leave, you are subjuct to crazy terrain, dirt, gravel, and rocks. Therefore, I could only film a little before holding on beat my desire for a good movie. But it gives you an idea.



(4) Cab
Perhaps the MOST efficient, yet most expensive is to take a cab. Unlike in Bogota, you do not need to call a cab ahead of time. They are just about everywhere and fairly reasonable, especially with a few people. You can comfortably fit 4 passengers in a typical cab, and some will even let you squeeze 5 (but they risk a hefty fine if they get caught). A typical cab can get you into the city for about $5,000-7,000 pesos (about $2.50-3.50) and if you need to go a little farther or its later at night, you are looking at about $10,000-12,000. The buses stop running around 9:30-9:45 PM so if you are considering a late night in the city, cabs are your only option (or you can just live it up until the buses start running again at 4-4:30 AM).
BENEFITS = speed, time, comfort, the radio, sometimes air conditioning, no weird people to have to maneuver around, etc.
DRAWBACKS = price
RULES = always negotiate a price before getting in the cab, and its perfectly reasonable to barter. Second, if you are with a colombian, let them do the talking. The second the driver realizes you are not from around here, they will raise the price like crazy. Third, pay attention, because many cab drivers have absolutely no idea where they are going. As odd as it seems, many drivers do not know the city at all. even with an address or the name of a well-known establishment. I had one cab driver struggle to drive us five blocks. It was late and we didn't feel comfortable walking in a part of the city we didn't know very well, but we ended up calling a friend to give the driver directions - back from the 15 blocks out the way we had traveled. It was a mess and took forever. Luckily we had time and got an excellent tour around el centro in the process!

(5) Friends with cars
And then there is the elusive friend with a car. This, while difficult to find, is the best optino by far. You get all the perks of a cab (speed, radio choices, air conditioning, direct routes, and a usually knowledgable driver, without the cost). It's awesome. However, most people are not lucky enough to enjoy this luxury. So for the other times when your friends are too busy to play chauffer, you are stuck with the bus or cab.


And those are your options. Clearly, La Playa and Barranquilla is just a mecca of transportation options, you just have to be open to a little adventure.

Just another day...

So I got to thinking lately about how I am viewing my time here and how I portray the experience to other people. A friend asked me recently how I could be so happy here if all I ever do is talk about my frustrations. On this blog, I probably go a little in the opposite direction, talking about the amazing things, and leaving out the challenges. Ultimately, the question at hand is: If I spend a good part of every day completely and totally frustrated, am I lying to myself when I say that I am happy here?

The truth is, life is really, really hard. I do not speak Spanish (well) at all. I am constantly struggling to understand and be understood. I have classes with 40-50 kids in them with no wealth of teaching resources to draw from. Some of these classes don't seem to be learning a thing. or have any desire to even try. I am exhausted all the time. I went from a place where I had tons of different groups of friends in nearby cities to a place where I know almost no one. I miss my family and my comfort foods and activities from home. Sometimes it takes everything in me to keep from calling up my best friends from home and trying to plan a night out on the town. Plus, I am not making any money, I'm draining my savings, and I have no idea what I am going to do with my life when I get back. Some days, I wonder what the heck I am accomplishing this year.

However, with all that said, I can still honestly say that I am truly and completely happy here. I know. It makes absolutely no sense. But some days I can't help but smile. Whenever I am in the midst of my frustrations and I'm counting down the days until the next weekend, all I seem to need is one smile on a child's face or one lightbulb moment in one of my classes and I remember. I live in Colombia! I have a whole new continent at my fingertips! And I am doing exactly what I love to do. Helping children. Learning about a new culture. And challenging myself every day. I actually love the challenges. I really do! Coming up against these obstacles and fighting my way through is what makes me who I am. While at the time, they may seem insurmountable, I can feel it making me a stronger person and I am learning a lot about myself and the person I want to be. Plus the feeling you get when you realize you are making progress is irreplaceable. The fact is, a lot of my classes are actually learning English!! I have students trying to form sentences and actually using vocabulary they learned. They will chase me down in the hallways or interupt my lesson to ask me how to say any number of words in English, and then actually try to use them. My Field Director was particularly impressed during my evaluation with my use of mostly English in my teaching and the progress the students had made in being able to understand. So apparently I am not completely wasting my time in the classroom.

Furthermore, I am loving the time I get to spend with them outside of class. Most meriendas, or snack time breaks, me and a group of girls go curl up on the bean bags in the library and read stories in English and Spanish. After school, we paint our nails and draw pictures, all the while sharing stories about life and family. I walk kids home from school, get to know the neighborhood, and meet their parents. One parent even thanked me for spending time with her son because he doesn't have a lot of friends. And when I asked why, she explained that the kids in this area are bad news. So now twice a week , we play soccer (and I use the term "play" loosely in my case) with a group of boys after my afternoon English class. We play till it gets dark and wander home together. By the time my class is over, it is 5 o'clock and I'm exhausted, but those two hours kicking, throwing, and playing are just what I need to recover from the stresses of teaching. I wouldn't trade them for anything.

Today marked another interesting adventure for me. A student had invited me to her house for lunch. While my better instincts told me that my Spanish skills were not up to this, and that I should just save us all the stress and awkwardness by politely declining, I honestly didn't know how to say no and not insult her. Besides, the other half of me was secretly excited by this prospect. So I went out, grabbed a dessert, and got ready for my afternoon. My student, Isabel, even called me early because she just couldn't wait any longer. And when, upon my arrival at their house, her younger brother of 3 years gave me a toothless grin and ran into my arms, I knew I had made the right decision. We had an amazing time. We ate a delicious lunch of fish, rice, platanos, salad, apples, and avocado. It took all of my might to finish the plate, it was so full. I looked through photo albums of faded photographs, played games, drew pictures, and received a lovely makeover complete with makeup and a new hairstyle. We watched some TV, and to show me that they had movies in English, I had the difficult choice between "What am I going to do with my life?" or "How to make decisions that honor God." Let's just say I feel much more enlightened now. After hanging out at the house, we took a moto through La Playa, waving at my students as I sped by, ending up at the beach near the mangroves. We played in the water, looked for seashells, played with the hermit crabs, watched a horse get a bath, cheered on a rousing game of water volleyball, and tossed a ball around on the shore. Needless to say, these clothes will now be going in the wash. The Spanish was hard and there were definite times that I struggled. But I did it. I made it. and every time I do something like this i will get better. Will I ever be fluent? I think its safe to say no. But I'm challenging myself and I'm making progress. It is exactly this sense of accomplishment, this growth, this progress that keeps me smiling. And every time I struggle with the challenges of being a teacher or living so far from home, I draw on this warm feeling and remind myself that this is what I love. Because it is. There is nowhere in the world I would rather be. And i wouldn't trade it for all the American comfort food or cushy adult apartments in the world. I promise. :)

Over the rivers and through the woods to Semana Santa I go....

HOW HAS SO MUCH TIME GONE BY?? I honestly cannot believe its been over a month since my last post, and a month since Semana Santa. I have been super busy so I definitely have a ton to talk about. One of my post-spring break vows is to be a better blogger, or a more frequent blogger at least. So far I am failing, but this will mark the official beginning of my new-found dedication. Since I can't talk about anything else until I get Semana Santa out of the way, I better get started. :)

Semana Santa was Holy Week and our spring break. 3/27-4/4. And it was AWESOME. I decided to go on a relaxing excursion with Lindsay, another volunteer, to wander around Santa Marta and Tayrona National Park. Here is my best account of the amazingness that ensued. Sorry if this ends up a little long.

SANTA MARTA

So we spent two nights in Santa Marta, a medium-sized city on the coast. It's a relatively popular tourist destination, with a huge market, old churches, and a lovely park and beach right at the city's edge. It's exactly what I think we were looking for. We picked up the bus Friday after school with the rest of the gang heading to Santa Marta to leave for a trek to Ciudad Perdida, the Lost City. It involves a 6 day hike through the jungle to see the remains of an old village. I know both Lindsay and I had considered going along, but after our own relaxing adventures, we were glad we stayed.

We hung out with the rest of the gang for Friday evening. Grabbed dinner, walked by the water, then hit the hay. We woke up on Saturday in time to see the group off on their trek and then grabbed breakfast. We got breakfast every morning at a small restaurant on the water, with pint glasses full of fresh fruit juice. With the sound of the water and a perfect view of the city waking up, it was perhaps one of my favorite parts of our Santa Marta weekend. With the rest of the day, we explored the city, wandered the market, sat and read by the water, and watched a very strange man do a dance interpretation of yoga that both amused and frightened me at the same time. It was lovely. relaxing. perfect.

Sunday was Palm Sunday. Our "shuttle" to Tayrona National Park didn't leave until 10:30 from our hostel, so we had all morning to wander. We got our usual breakfast by the water. Then we went in the direction of the market again. Instead, we found several church services either in progress or just ending. It was awesome. Everyone had their palms folded into the shape of crosses. They also had, though, actual plants in plastic pots and dry flowers, which was interesting. They raised their palms outside in prayer (some people pots and all) and then began a procession through the town. It was really really cool to witness and be a small part of. I love the passion of people at church. Like nowhere else in the world exists at that moment. It's very powerful. After that, we had used up all our free time, so we headed back to the hostel to await our shuttle to our next destination.


PARQUE TAYRONA

After that, we jumped in our shuttle to Parque Tayrona, which was a little farther away than I had realized. I had also not realized that our shuttle would be a dilapidated old taxi with a crazy driver who kept stopping for gas, even though it was only like a 45 minutes drive. It was totally worth the ride, though, as well as the 45 minute hike to our campsite in the hottest hour of the day with our bags. The park was beautiful. We stayed in the slightly more calm area of Arricefes, with tall palm trees, cool breezes, and tents and hammocks that enjoyed the sounds of the crashing surf 24/7. Can you say heaven? There was even a reasonable restaurant on the beach, complete with full fresh juice bar. Done and done.

However, you cannot swim in the water at Arricefes. So the first thing we did after we unpacked by our hammocks, was to wander in the direction of La Piscina, a calmer beach with water suitable for swimming. And it was only a 20 minute hike away. Perfect. However, 45 mintues later, we still had not found it. We were considering turning around, when we came across Cabo San Juan, another area with places to stay, and our new favorite hang-out spot. It had two beaches, one on the ocean and one on a calmer bay, beautiful water (with swimming), palm trees, and a cool gazebo with hammocks on a cliff overlooking both beaches. It was amazing. needless to say we made that 45 minutes hike every day we were in the park. it was that cool. So we hung out until it started to get dark, and made our way back home for a little journal-writing and reading by the beach. It was soooo relaxing.

The next day we decided to brave the 2.5 hour hike to Pueblito, the remains of an ancient village built by the Tayrona tribes in the 4th century, high up in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. With emphasis on the HIGH up part. We attempted to leave early to avoid the midday sun, but didn't end up getting going until about 9:30. In fact, the park has rules that you can't even begin the hike after 1 pm. We made it with plenty of time, but perhaps if we had realized how much of an incline this hike enjoyed, we may have tried a little harder to leave earlier. With the heat and the altitude, I thought I was going to die. However, it was totally worth it. After a small scare that led us to believe that the town was actually a pile of rocks, we continued on and found the actual remains. And they are amazing. The whole town is actually rather large, with the Kogi tribe (descendants of the original Tayrona tribes) still living in the area. These people were gorgeous in and of themselves. We wished we had brought a picnic, but since we hadn't eaten lunch, we couldn't spend too much time up there. After about a half an hour, we headed back, did out victory dance, and grabbed some lunch at the restaurant in Cabo and prepared for a relaxing afternoon hanging out by the beach. :)

Our last day at the park, we spent completely lazy. Still aching from the hike the day before, we spent the morning in Arricefes, eating the last of our food stashes, reading and enjoying the amazing greenery. When we finally felt up for hiking again, we headed back to Cabo for our last afternoon of swimming and surf. By the evening, the Colombian Semana Santa crowds had invaded and our quaint dinner spot had exploded with people. Needless to say, I think we were ready to leave the park. After a calm evening by the beach, we hit the hay and prepared to move on to our last spot the following morning.

TAGANGA

So our last vacation spot of choice was the super quaint diving village of Taganga. While we had heard mixed reviews of the place in the past, we fell in love instantly. It had the sprawling Sierra Nevada Mountains of parque Tayrona, with the beach town feeling of Santa Marta. There were juice stands within an arm's reach of any spot on the the main drag, and plenty of bars and restaurants to keep you busy for any amount of time. However, there really is only one restaurant you need to know when vacationing here. Sure, the fresh fish on the beach is to die for, and margarita's makes the best baguette sandwiches on the coast. But if you only have one meal in Taganga, it has to be at Casa de Felipe. Picture quaint cobble stone patios, rustic wooden tables, and reasonably priced food that will make your mouth water. Filet Mignon for under $10, seafood pasta, gourmet soups and sandwiches, fish fillets, all cooked fresh to order and all like straight out of an expensive 5 star restaurant. You can spend your day diving (at just about the cheapest place in the world to do so), but don't let your night pass you by without dinner here. I, probably embarassingly, ate every single dinner here during the time i was here. I was adventurous during lunch, but dinner belonged to Felipe. No Contest.

The first night was Lindsay's only night here, so we had to celebrate the end of our exciting adventure together. We actually spent the day very lazily. We went for a walk along the beach, read in the hammocks overlooking the mountains, and chatted with other travelers, of which there was more here than in either of our previous locations. We even found other WorldTeach volunteers from Ecuador. small world. So when it was time for dinner, a bunch of us travelers ventured to Felipe to see what all the fuss was about. Some amazing dishes later (Filet Mignon for me!), minus an incident with a cat and a few badly placed jokes, we had an amazing evening. good food, relaxation, and good company. All-in-all a great end to our week together.

The next morning, Lindsay headed out to meet a friend coming to Barranquilla from the States, and I began the "alone time" portion of my break, a chance to reflect on my time here so far, set new goals for myself, and just gather my thoughts before falling back into the grind on Monday. I Or so I thought. I finished my book, followed by a trip to the main beach alone, and somehow ran into someone we had met from Santa Marta, small world. Then walking home, I ran into the other Barranquilla volunteers, coming back from their hike to Ciudad Perdida, a lost city similar to Pueblita but much further into the mountains. They were preparing for dinner themselves. So I ran back to my hostel, took a dip in the pool, took a shower, and decided to head to Casa de Felipe with my friends. I mean, if they were going to try the restaurant for the first time, I might as well give them some suggestions and show them the way. ;) Plus, I got to hear about their hike and try the Seafood pasta with Lobster Sauce. it was a win - win. We then walked back into town for 5 mil ($2.50) cocktails. As if I thought the night couldn't get any better. And we ended with some dancing at a club on the beach. basically the perfect night. However, my attempts at self reflection were kinda forgotten.

So the next day (Friday), I decided to bypass the main beach, and hike to one of the many small sparsely populated coves along the coast. However, first I had to pass by another crowded beach called Playa Grande, a Colombian favorite just a short uphill hike or boat ride away from Taganga. I was halfway across the beach on my hike when a teacher from the school comes running up to me. He explains that he had yelled to me the day before, but I apparently hadn't heard him. He invites me to meet his family and we end up having lunch and going for a boat ride together. It was really nice. A bit more Spanish conversation and a bit less alone time than I had hoped for, but all in all, who can complain about someone buying you a fresh fish dinner on the water? We even took the boat back at the end of the afternoon, instead of having to hike in the heat, which I appreciated. However, this was my last night in Taganga. Therefore, I had to go back to Casa de Felipe for one last sendoff dinner. I was fully prepared to eat alone, when another guy from the hostel explained he was going anyway and we should go together. Of course. why not. We also ran into the other WorldTeach people from Ecuador, who looked at us like we were on some kind of date, which made it all the more funny. I didn't care, I had my Filet Mignon and someone to talk to. I was happy.

The next day, I was leaving at 1:30 on a bus back to Barranquilla. So I got up early, determined to find these private coves. I hiked down to the water, grabbed a fruit juice, and began what became a two hour hike along the coast. It was amazing, and I would have kept going if I hadn't known that I didn't have much time. I found a cove with few people and set up my spot. I read a little, swam in the crystal clear water with the fishes, and did some thinking. Ultimately, a successful last morning. I even headed back with enough time to take a dip in the pool, grab lunch at the baguette place, and pack my things. I actually briefly considered extending my stay as the boys in the pool explained that the hostel was having a bbq and party by the pool that night. What could possibly be so important in Barranquilla that couldn't wait until Sunday? However, buses were hard to come by Semana Santa weekend, so I stuck to my plan and made it home by around 5 (much later than anticipated, but then again, this is Colombia).

Semana Santa = Success.
I can only hope I make it back to the park and taganga again some time soon!

"How can you just sit there and not help the children?" And we couldn't. We just couldn't sit there and not help the children.

So, I wrote this whole post about 4 days ago. it was fabulous. It talked all about Kristen's visit and the exciting things we did. It went through the highs and lows of the week and discussed the things that I learned. I posted it. Reread it. it wasn't half bad. In short, I was pleased.

Now, I return to continue my exciting Colombian saga, only to realize that my last post is not here. at all. gone. Perhaps it was the internet. or maybe just Colombia reminding me that absolutely nothing works here the way you expect it to. Lesson plans. School schedules. In any case, I will have to put off my topics for today and try and recap a little about what i talked about before. It won't be the same, but I'll do my best. Heck, maybe it will be better!

So Kristen, my sister, visited last week!! It was soooo nice having her here. I got to show her all of my favorite things about Colombia and it definitely reminded me about why I love it here. However, her visit also reminded me a little of home, and the things I left behind. Even watching her miss the little things about daily American life (like air conditioning), left me with a bitter taste in my mouth. However, she also brought a suitcase full of American goodies, so I recovered quickly. Looking back, after two and a half months here, the following is a summary of the things I absolutely adore about Colombia, and the things I miss about home:

Things I miss about the US:
- family and friends
- consistent electricity and internet
- the ability to take a hot shower (I realize its 90+ degrees here but I'm weird)
- air conditioning
- my token comfort foods (I love rice and beans, but they can only take me so far. I need some fresh milk and homemade mac and cheese in my life)
- the American love of schedules and keeping people informed (I'm a planner)

Things I adore about Colombia:
- The kids, who are always full of love, hugs, kisses, laughter, gifts, and encouragement (exactly what I need)
- The fresh fruit and vegetables!!
- Street food (not exactly the most healthy, but nothing beats a good empanada or chuzo)
- Crepes and Waffles (noticing a pattern? I'm in trouble, but don't worry.... its the good kind :) )
- the Colombian people are the most friendly and helpful I've ever met
- the Colombian love of holidays
- Latin dancing! (even if my own skill falls embarrassingly short)
- being in a place with so many interesting, historical, naturally beautiful places to explore
- the beach (nothing like the rolling waves to do some good thinking, and sunbathing)
- the ability to challenge myself (it can be hard, but that's what life is for)

A day doesn't go by without me finding myself frustrated by some change in plans or some situation in which I can't express myself the way that I want to. Still, a day doesn't pass that I am not extremely happy and thankful to be here. I am continually learning about myself and feeling myself grow in new and different ways. In the span of a few minutes, I will leave a classroom in which my lesson-plan flopped, no one paid attention, I broke up two fights, and left a child crying, feeling like a complete failure as a teacher. Then suddenly, I will run into a favorite student, smiling from ear to ear. He will inevitably yell "Profe!" run up, give me a hug, and ask me to teach him another question in English. Or grin while he repeats one of our silly inside jokes. or perhaps I will see another favorite student, who can't speak a word of English, but has the patience of a saint while i stumble through the Spanish I do know, and even calls me her mother. And I can't help but smile. This is why I came here. And I think that my sister got a taste of this while she was here too.

Sure, we visited Playa Blanca, a picturesque Caribbean beach, and Cartagena, a gorgeous colonial port city. We did touristy things in Barranquilla, like go to the market and out dancing, and American-like things, like go to the mall and see a movie. We even ate at Crepes and Waffles (my favorite restaurant)... twice. We crammed a lot into the short week she was here. However, I think that going to school with me one day is a memory she will definitely carry with her for a long time. She was sick with a bad sunburn and the usual Colombian digestive challenges, but the kids adored her! They showered her with gifts and drawings, some even better than any I had ever recieved. They hugged her, kissed her, asked her questions, danced for her, even escorted her hand-in-hand around school. One class even said they liked her better than me, which I won't take personally since she wasn't making them learn anything. Sometimes I think that God put kids on earth to remind us of all the good in the world, and why we are here. To think of the situations some of these kids deal with at home, its hard to believe that they are still so happy and excited. I don't know how you can meet these kids, know these kids, and not want to help. Not want to give everything you have, every piece of yourself to make their lives easier. Some days, I can't even bear the thought of leaving them. I hope that Kristen got a small dose of this. So when she looks back on the crazy country without air conditioning and where you can't flush the toilet paper, this place with beautiful beaches and friendly people, the country where few people speak English and communicating can be a struggle, I hope that she remembers the children. and how love can transcend any language barrier.

Gringos make the news again!!!

Apparently one newspaper article about us gringos is not nearly enough. Our lives are so interesting that they wrote a second piece in the Barranquilla newspaper, El Heraldo. I didn't want you to miss it! So, here it is for your reading pleasure, in Spanish and roughly translated into English:

LINK TO ACTUAL ARTICLE ONLINE
http://www.elheraldo.com.co/ELHERALDO/BancoConocimiento/G/glapandillagringa/glapandillagringa.asp?CodSeccion=25

ALSO, IN CASE YOU MISSED THE FIRST ARTICLE ABOUT OUR TEACHING:
http://www.elheraldo.com.co/ELHERALDO/BancoConocimiento/G/glamisiongringa/glamisiongringa.asp?CodSeccion=48

La pandilla gringa encanta a los habitantes de la playa
(The Gringo Gang loves the People of La Playa)

Después de un día fatigante, los profesores se reúnen en la casa para compartir cuentos y sus impresiones de trabajar en la escuela Pies Descalzos. (After an exhausting day, the teachers gather at home to share stories and impressions of work in the school, Pies Descalzos.) Foto: Cristian Mercado

Por Gabriel Stargardter

Después de estudiar ingeniería biomédica en la universidad, el New Yorker Nick Mikolenko decidió ir a enseñar matemáticas en Micronesia, unas islas del Pacífico. Por lo visto, Nick prefiere el clima tropical porque después de un año, se vino a Barranquilla para ser profesor de inglés en la escuela Pies Descalzos.

Para Mikolenko, su misión está clara. “Colombia es un país que se está desarrollando, y para que continúe su progreso la próxima generación necesita aprender inglés”.

Su compañera, Aisha Chapell, otra profesora de Nueva York, está de acuerdo. Aunque admite que su percepción de la ciudad y el país todavía es limitada, asegura que “todos los niños están muy entusiasmados por aprender inglés”.

¿Pero, qué piensan los niños? ¿Y los otros profesores? ¿Y los barranquilleros de La Playa que viven al lado de los huéspedes estadounidenses?.

Para Néstor Martínez, director de la escuela Pies Descalzos, la primera impresión ha sido completamente positiva.

Él está aprovechando el curso de inglés que los siete voluntarios dictan para toda la comunidad, como preparación para una maestría en investigación en educación en la Universidad de la Norte, que está por comenzar este año. “En realidad se han integrado muy bien”, dice Martínez.

Margarita Donado es la propietaria de la casa donde habitan los siete voluntarios. Ella comparte la impresión de Martínez, y los describe como huéspedes ideales.

“Se han comportado muy bien. Están amañados, como decimos acá. Me siento contenta con ellos, compartimos y los queremos como si fueran de la familia”.

Uno de los jóvenes estudiante y vecino del barrio, Juan Camilo Arias, está consciente de las ventajas de aprender el inglés, por ello no quiere perder esta oportunidad.

“Las clases son espectaculares. Hemos aprendido mucho: los saludos, los años, los meses y un poco de cosas bacanas”.

Para Lindsay Giesen la situación es de admiración mutua. “Me encanta vivir en este barrio, en el que me siento muy segura. Yo realizo caminata todas las noches y el vecindario en las calles me saluda. La gente nos invita a sus casas a cenar, eso me parece maravilloso”. Su compañera Lauren Doll nunca había visitado a Colombia, pero dice que la gente es amable y como Giesen, también piensa que es mucho más seguro de lo que esperaba.

“Pasé por una iglesia aquí en el barrio, a los 15 minutos salió el cura para invitarnos a comer y a conocernos a todos. Mi español no es perfecto y lo encuentro un reto, pero al mismo tiempo, es una aventura, y creo que estoy mejorando” confiesa.

Aunque Giesen admite que su pandilla gringa es “difícil ignorar” y que hay diferencias culturales entre Colombia y los Estados Unidos- la falta de privacidad y las actitudes educativas de los colegiales - que pueden ser fatigantes, asegura que la experiencia ha sido muy positiva. Además, se ha enamorado en Barranquilla. “¡Adoro los cookies Festival!”

Fundación Pies Descalzos

Fundada por la cantante barranquillera Shakira, la fundación Pies Descalzos existe para dar el apoyo a los costeños más vulnerables: los niños. Actualmente, la organización tiene cinco escuelas en sitios con una historia de violencia y desplazamiento de poblaciones a causa de la violencia. Según su pagina web, “La Fundación Pies Descalzos financia programas en tres ciudades colombianas. La meta es expandir nuestra labor a más ciudades, para poder ayudar a más niños y así ejercer su derecho a una educación de calidad”.

El salón escolar en EU

Todos los profesores están de acuerdo que hay varias diferencias entre la experiencia de ser profesor en los EU y en Colombia. Según Mikolenko, siempre se pregunta “Los niños hablan mucho y no levantan la mano para hacer preguntas”. Todavía está definiendo cuáles son diferencias culturales y cuáles son simplemente falta de respeto. Para Aisha Chapell también es un reto. Ella comenta que el horario es diferente, y que se tuvo que acostumbrar, pero asegura que la oportunidad ha sido muy positiva y educativa.

Roughly Translated:

After studying biomedical engineering at the university, the New Yorker, Nick Mikolenko, decided to go teach mathematics in Micronesia, Pacific Islands. Apparently, Nick prefers the tropical climate, because after a year, he came to Barranquilla to be an English teacher at Fundacion Pies Descalzos.

For Mikolenko, the mission is clear. "Colombia is a country that is developing, and to continue its progress, the next generation needs to learn English.

title="Su compañera, Aisha Chapell, otra profesora de Nueva York, está de acuerdo." onmouseover="this.style.backgroundColor='#ebeff9'" onmouseout="this.style.backgroundColor='#fff'">His colleague, Aisha Chappell, another teacher from New York, agrees. Although she admits that her perception of the city and the country is still limited, she says that "All of the children are very excited to learn English."

But what do the children think? What about the other teachers? What about the Baranquilleros in La Playa, living next to the American guests?.

For Nestor Martinez, director of Fundacion Pies Descalzos school, the first impression was quite positive.

He is using the English courses, held by the seven volunteers for the entire community, in preparation for a masters in education research at the Universidad del Norte, which will begin this year. "We really are very well integrated," says Martinez.

Margarita Donado is the owner of the house inhabited by the seven volunteers. She shares the feeling of Martinez, and describes them as ideal guests.

"They have behaved very well. They are here to stay, as we say here. I am happy with it, and we share like family. "

One of their young students and neighbor, Juan Camilo Arias, is aware of the advantages of learning English, and does not want to miss this opportunity.

"The classes are spectacular. We learn a lot: the greetings, years, months and some cool things."

For Lindsay Giesen the situation is mutual admiration. "I love living in this neighborhood, where I feel very safe. I go runing every night and the neighbors on the street greet me. People are invited home to dinner, I think that's wonderful. " Lauren Doll, her friend, had never visited Colombia, but says the people are friendly and, like Giesen, also thinks it is much safer than expected.

"I went to a church here in the neighborhood, with only 15 minutes left in the service, and the priest came to greet us and everyone invited us to eat. My Spanish is not perfect and I find it a challenge, but at the same time is an adventure, and I think I'm improving," she confesses.

Although Giesen admits that her gringa gang is "difficult to ignore" and that there are cultural differences between Colombia and the United States, for example, the lack of privacy and educational attitudes of the students - which can be tiring, she says the experience has been very positive. In addition, she has fallen in love with Barranquilla. "I love the Festival cookies !"

The Barefoot Foundation

Founded by Barranquillera singer Shakira, Pies Descalzos Foundation exists to provide support for the coast's more vulnerable: the children. The organization currently has five schools on sites with a history of violence and population displacements due to violence. According to its website, "The Barefoot Foundation funds programs in three cities in Colombia. The goal is to expand our work to more cities in order to help more children and thus exercise the right to a quality education. "

The Classroom in the U.S.

All teachers agree that there are several differences between the experience of being a teacher in the U.S. and Colombia. According Mikolenko, "The kids talk a lot and do not raise their hands to ask questions." He's still defining which are cultural differences and which are simply disrespectful. For Aisha Chappell it is also a challenge. She said that the schedule is different, which she had to get used to, but ensures that the opportunity has been very positive and educational.

¡Quien lo vive es quien lo goza! Carnaval de Barranquilla

So sorry again for the delay in updating you all (or most likely just the few members of my family who read this). The internet has been really bad the past few weeks. Plus, I have so much I want to talk about, it's hard to know where to start! I have been here a whole 8 weeks now. It's hard to believe. Obviously, though, I can't possibly move on to any other topic until I discuss the amazing, exotic, culturally relevant, Carnaval de Barranquilla. So more on life and work in La Playa to come.

There are no words to describe Carnaval in Barranquilla. It is as much a part of the city and its culture as the architecture and the food. For the weeks preceding and following the event, it takes over every aspect of daily life and remains a source of immense pride for the people. In short, if you have not experienced Barranquilla during Carnaval season, you don't know the real Barranquilla. I will attempt to give you a small taste of the craziness and culture that is Carnaval.

PRECARNAVAL

¡Quien lo vive es quien lo goza! Roughly translated: "He who lives it, enjoys it." This is the motto of Carnaval, and, in my experience, it couldn't be more true. Carnaval takes place in the 4 days preceding Ash Wednesday, or February 13-16. However, Pre-Carnaval activities take place formally and informally during the whole month before. These include concerts, dancing, events (such as the Coronation of the Queen of Carnaval) and many other impromptu celebrations. There is music going at all hours of the day and night and it is not uncommon to see people covered in cornstarch and foam, walking down the streets late at night.

One of the most interesting and enjoyable Precarnaval events we went to was a drum concert in Barrio Abajo, a neighborhood of the city. We had been invited by the other teachers in the school, with little idea of what we were actually getting ourselves into. When we arrived, a small crowd had begun to gather around a closed-off intersection. There were stands selling food everywhere and people had already begun to search out the perfect viewing location for the concert. Instead of staking out our own spot, a few teachers dropped Shakira's name at the gate, and we were ushered into the closed off section, where at the time, only the band was setting up. They soon started to play traditional Carnaval music, with big drums, shakers, and small wooden flutes. The band consisted of an odd assortment of men, women, and children, each taking turns playing and dancing. As soon as they began, with no one else around but the band, they told us to start dancing in a circle around them. A few small children dressed up in traditional Carnaval costumes joined us, and in no time, there were tons of people dancing around the band, drinking, throwing cornstarch, and having an amazing time. After the number of people grew exponentially, we decided to move on to another Precarnaval celebration, at a local bar and restaurant. There we found more of the same, with a little more room to move around. All in all, it was a great first taste of Carnaval and left us ready for the real thing.

CARNAVAL WEEKEND

Friday = La Playa kicked off Carnaval Weekend with a monumental Carnaval celebration in school on Friday. Throughout the week, teachers and students had been making posters and decorations (often in place of class time). So by the time Friday rolled around, the place looked fantastic. I had, somewhat prematurely, agreed to be the Gringos Queen of Carnaval, so it wasn't long before I had on a lovely sequined costume, taking pictures next to all of the other ornately decorated teachers. We put on an amazing presentation of the queens from every grade, the results of a stiff competition which had earned each her own crown. There were also dance performances (some a bit more suggestive than I might have anticipated) and musical presentations. I danced more in public than my abilities probably warranted, however it was a ton of fun! And the kids were really into it. The day's events concluded with a huge parade around La Playa, complete with a band playing live Carnaval music. We (the gringos) even had our own "float" (or mule-drawn wooden cart) to stand on. Floats were decorated with flowers, paper-machete marimondas, and streamers. And when we through the neighborhood, the school filled the streets with dancing, laughing, and craziness. Kids and families not in school would run to see the spectacle, which seemed to go on for miles. It was certainly an experience.

We were also very fortunate to have our Worldteach friends from Cartegena and Isla Baru in town for the weekend. While they missed the excitement at the school, they were in time for a little food and going out Friday night. It was so nice to see them again and hear all about their amazing experiences in their own sites.

Saturday = Saturday is the biggest parade of the weekend, called Batalla de Flores. We had to "reserve" seats ahead of time with teachers from the school, and even in doing this, the crowds made doing so nearly impossible. It took us hours to get from La Playa to the parade site, involving buses, cabs, and a lot of fighting crowds. I don't think I have ever seen so many people packed into the streets in one area in my life. People were dressed up in costumes, carrying instruments, covered in foam and cornstarch, and generally having a good time. With seats going fast, I immediately went to try and feed myself. Even while buying food, I found that at any second, somebody was inevitably going to spray foam into the crowd and invade my newly purchased lunch. I eventually had to accept that I would ingest the foam at some point, and vowed to enjoy my fruit smoothie and empanada regardless.

Our seats were actually plastic stackable lawn chairs, and by the time we had returned from our food adventure, the ones we had previously claimed had been taken. I managed to claim another one in the second row, a pretty good vantage point to watch the parade, so no harm done. The parade itself was amazing. The floats were huge with intricate detail. There were characters from Uncle Sam to Mr. T, from wholesome advertisements to inappropriate characters. If you can imagine it, it was probably present somewhere in the parade. There were floats with bands and dancers, and dancing groups which paraded through from across the country. Some of the costumes were really out of this world. The parade lasted for hours. We actually had to leave a little bit early, because a few of us had tickets to a Daddy Yankee concert, another huge part of Carnaval.

Concerts are huge affairs during Carnaval. With our limited funds, we had picked one to attend. Daddy Yankee, for those of you unfamiliar with the Latin American music scene, is a huge singer from New York, specializing in reggaeton, a Latin American combination of rap and R&B. After the adventure of navigating our way to the stadium, we grabbed some quick comida rapida (fast food, but not in the McDonald's sense) and made our way to the line. The tickets had said doors would open at 4, but the lines only began to move around 5. While we made it inside in time for the start of the concert at 6, we quickly learned that this is merely a suggestion. Nothing started till 7. Ok. not too bad. we got some more food. chatted. unfortunately, we hadn't had any time to sleep so the soft sounds of hte opening bands almost put me to sleep. I tried to stay awake by watching the crazy people around us. The were having a ball smearing corn starch on eachother, dancing, and drinking (beers were only a $1, but most people had rum, which required bribing hte police checking bags - if only we had known. jk). They even tried to get us to join in, but the idea of cornstarch smeared over my face was not a part of Carnaval I was interested in. I had sunburn already from the parade and I knew, for a fact, that it did not come off easily. We talked a bit to some new friends, with a time limit of 11. If he hadn't come by then, we were leaving. Two hours later, practically alseep on our cement benches, Daddy Yankee took the stage at 1AM, a whole 7 hours after the concert was set to begin. We promptly woke up, enjoyed an amazing show of all of his songs, and crawled our way home to bed. Certainly a great success. Totally worth the wait.

Sunday = Sadly, Sunday our friends from Cartagena and Isla baru left us to return home. It was sad seeing them go. So, to drown our sorrows and recover from the day before, Wismine and I decided to adventure to the market. We spent the day poking around stands of arts and crafts and Carnaval specialties. I got a few gifts and a few treats for myself. We even made some new friends, like a man from Peru and a family who gave us bracelets and rum. lol. all you need in life, apparently. Wismine even spoke on the radio. It was absolutely lovely.

Monday = We tried out another parade, but this time from the comfort of the shaded bleachers. We had a much better view of the parade and without the intense heat from the sun. While it was only $5 today, on Saturday, these same seats sell for like $100. We defintiely got the best of all worlds. Monday's parade was the Gran Parada de Fantasia, which we experienced with Margarita and Kati. It had a lot less floats and much more dancing. It was amazing. the dancers were more choreographed than the day before, and their costumes were awesome. I got a lot of good pictures. On our way home (always an adventure during Carnaval) we met some really interesting people. The first was a CNN Asia photojournalist from Hong Kong, who took our pictures and picked our brains about Colombia. Then, after we sent him on his way with Margarita and Kati to a comedy show, we headed home to get some rest. When our street disappeared (as in literally the streets went from 53 to 55, leaving 54 nowhere to be found), we asked for help from a really cool guy who had learned English from his dads books. He was really helpful and sweet. He walked us all the way to the bus stop and even waited until the bug got there. That's defintiely one of my favorite things about Colombia. Everyone is so friendly and helpful. No one seems to be too busy to stop what they are doing and help you with whatever you need. It's so refreshing.

Tuesday = This day celebrates the death of Joselito, who, legend tells us, died and left hundreds of pregnant women mourning. So, to celebrate this, women dress up in all black and parade around the town, mourning the death of joselito. Several of these women visited our doorstep with a suitcase carrying a big marimondo costume, signifying joselito. They were crying and moaning and putting on a grand show. It was hilarious. We then, tried to catch the funeral and parade for joselito, which the website said started at 4. This was, apparently, a lie. When we arrived at 3:30, we learned that it had already been going on for an hour and a half and that we had missed the funeral. We did get to see more costumes and dancing. Plus, we made up for the loss with some ice cream, one food of which Colombia has plenty, and I stopped on my way home at Buenavista (the mall) for a Burger King dinner. It was a bit expensive, as American fast food tends to be abroad, but well worth the money.

Wednesday = And thus ended Carnaval. We had off from school on Wednesday, to recover from Carnaval, so we decided to celebrate Aisha's birthday by treating ourselves to Crepes and Waffles, a lovely restaurant with more food choices than you will ever have a chance to sample. We followed the good food with a little movie-time by seeing Valentine's Day. A little corny, it was a nice dose of home and relaxation. I then did my big grocery shopping trip of the week and called it a day. All in all, a great end to a great weekend.

Now if only I could have had as much fun going back to work on Thursday.... alas. A two day week was a nice way to ease ourselves back into teaching. The following full week was defintiely much harder to get through. Still, more to come on normal daily life soon!!!