So fall break was last week and it was really nothing short of epic. I backpacked on my own around the coffee region and had a fabulous time. I got to visit all the other volunteers stationed in the mountains, made new friends, enjoyed hot showers, and drank lots of coffee. I could probably write a book about everything I did, but I will try to just hit the highlights (and I mean, TRY). So here's hoping...
Manizales
So I began my trip by flying into Manizales... or at least I was supposed to. In try Colombian fasion, i waited patiently for 5 hours in the Bogota airport until my flight was supposed to leave....then another hour for delays.... then I boarded a bus to the plane.... then I deboarded the bus and went back into the airport.... then I watched a riot ensue as Aires told us our flight had been canceled with no new flights available until tomorrow. It was all very interesting and not the least bit surprising. There with petitions, yelling, fists in the air. A lovely woman had been on my earlier flight from barranquilla and seeing that I had lost my earlier travel companions to a flight to leticia, she took pity on me. Nothing worse in Colombia than being an female extranero traveling alone. So she braved the crowds, gathered the important information, and relayed the information to me on a need-to-know basis. Basically our choices came down to a flight to Pereira, a city an hour and half from manizales, or waiting until the first flight out in the morning. I think the whole flight, moaning and groaning, opted for the flight to Periera. So FINALLY, one flight to a new city, one bus to manizales, and one free ride by my new Colombian mom and her son to my hostel later.... I was in Manizales. ready to really begin my adventure
Manizales was lovely, perhaps my favorite Colombian city so far (apart from the picturesque Barranquilla, of course). The whole city ran on a major road at the top of a mountain, with the side streets all running along the sides of the ridge, making for beautiful views in every direction. Since my original plan to visit Los Nevados (a snow-capped volcano!) was foiled due to tremors closing the national park for the week of my visit, i spent Sunday exploring the city. I walked the 50+ blocks from my hostel to the city, checked the old churches, walked to the top of the Cathedral (the 5th highest church tower in the world), strapped on a harness for a sky walk at the top of the highest point in the city, and generally just wandered around. It was lovely and very relaxing. Since the hostel pretty much emptied out, I ended up spending the evening eating empanadas with a Canadian guy from my hostel and watching avatar on the big screen tv with my new Dutch roommate, whose real name I cannot remember because it sounded like yogurt, so now thats all I can think of. It was actually very relaxing.
The next day, with the park still closed, I met Angela for a wonderful coffee/breakfast date. We got fruit bowls with granola, yogurt, and chocolate flakes and camped out at Juan Valdez for like 3 hours. it was really nice to catch up and hear about what's going on in her life. Plus, I can't resist gathering ideas for what to do after my contract ends. Minus an interruption by my Canadian dinner friend, it was a perfect end my visit in manizales. I grabbed the bus with her on the way to her school and we parted ways, sending me to the cable car to the terminal. Next stop: Quimbaya.
Quindio
Quindio is an area in the coffee region. The coffee region is typically thought of to be the area enclosed by the triangle of Armenia, Pereira, and Manizales. Quindio's claims to fame include the Parque del Cafe amusement park and the Panaca plantation, neither of which I visited. It also happens to be where Quimbaya and Montenegro are located, the home sites for Miriam, Lynn, Megan, and Adam.
I started by visiting Quimbaya to catch up with Miriam and Lynn. It took me a little longer to get there than I had hoped, but it was pretty easy to do. I got there just in time to see their apartment, get a small tour of the town, enjoy some fresh fruit juice and a heavenly arepa con queso on the balcony, and accompany them to their evening class. It was so nice to sit in on someone else's life and routine. And they were fabulous hosts. I even got my own room to sleep in! The next day I went to school with them, and then still had enough time to make it to Megan and Adam's school to watch part of their school birthday celebration, complete with an array of colombian dances. I spent the afternoon in Montenegro, catching up with Megan and Adam on their balcony, getting a great tour of their town, running in the rain, and having a perfect stuffed arepa dinner. I don't know why the coast doesn't enjoy these amazing delicacies!! All-in-all, it was a great visit with the mountain folk! I was really glad I came.
Salento
The next morning I woke up at the crack of dawn to begin my journey to Salento. I got into town and found my hostel at about 9, which was apparently perfect timing to run into my roommate from manizales Yogurt, well obviously thats not his name but since thats what everyone calls him, I don't actually know what it is) and sign up for his horseback rising tour. Horseback rising was hands-down my favorite activity all break. We had an awesome group of people, most of which from Holland, and we just cantered and galloped through the countryside, up and down mountains, along coffee plantations, and through rivers. There were no helmets. just you and the horse. it was aboslutely lovely. Since I was pretty comfortable on a horse, me and another guy kept ending up way ahead of everyone. It was nice to just be able to ride with your horse on your own, separate from the group. I loved it.
After horseback riding, I was exhausted. It was actually pretty good exercise and lasted over 3 hours. Plus I woke up and travelled crazy early. However, there was a tour of a coffee plantation that I didn't want to miss. We got to see the plants, learned about the different kinds of coffee and the advantages of each, and even got to try some freshly made colombian brews. It was really interesting, and the plantation was breaktaking. Exactly what I had hoped for. After the tour, we grabbed some dinner in town and headed back with some wine to hang out in front of the fire. Yes, that's right. There was a fireplace. It felt like a ski lodge. Or a really cool sleep-away camp. I loved it. The people were all really cool, but I called it a night early because I was beat. Besides, I needed my energy for the 6 hour hike through Valle de Corcora the next day. i ended up taking to my roommate for like 2 hours, so there went my resting idea. However, we had a really good talk so I can't regret it too much. I love meeting new people backpacking!
On Thursday, the whole gang from the hostel went to Valle de Corcora. We loaded up on the first set of jeeps out of Salento, with people standing on the back and squished on top of each other. it was quite the adventure. The hike was lovely. The group of maybe 15-20 quickly separated. I first ended up walking with my roommate, Nolene, but we soon met up with two guys and made a foursome. Which was nice, since the path was less than obvious at some points. I may have cut myself on barbed wire and balanced on some very sketchy-looking bridges. But it was all worth it. After several signs claiming the first stop was nearby, we made it to the humming brid sanctuary, where we could enjoy some hot chocolate with cheese. The altitude had started to get to me, so taking a break was just what i needed. Some wanted to turn back, but we hadn't actually made it to the waxing palms yet so I insisted we continue. Little did I know that the next hour was completely uphill, in the mud. But it was all worth it. I thought the scenery was just breathtaking. Totally worth my struggle. :)
Medellin
The next day I had a few travel mishaps. Los Nevados was still closed, but I decided to try and make a pitstop in manizales anyway to check out the thermal springs. This was a poor choice, since they were blocking off part of the road and we ended up sitting on the other side of the mountain for 2 hours. When I finally got there, there was nothing I could do but jump on another 6 hour bus ride to Medellin. Needless to say, by the time I got there, I was ready for a little relaxation.
So I won't go day by day (mainly because I don't remember), but here are the highlights:
- Exploring the city - Botoro Museum was super cool, parque de la luz, the Cathedral, the botanical gardens etc. The city is huge and surrounded by gorgeous mountains so there is no end to places to explore. I also enjoyed finding small cafes to sit in and read.
- Pueblito Paisa - a small model of a typical Paisa village up on a hill. I also had fun exploring the park that surrounds it and meeting the lovely military men that apparently sleep there at night.
- Paragliding - AWESOME. totally worth the $40. Even though i didn't listen to the suggestion to get there early and instead had to wait 3 hours for the winds to die down enough. But it was still awesome. it was literally flying. nothing below you. the scenery was spectacular and we even spiraled to the ground like a bird. I would do it again in a heartbeat.
- Guatape - sadly I dont have any pictures from this because I was too lazy to take them off my camera and then was stupid and let it get stolen in Bogota. However.... there is a huge rock you can climb up to and see the country side. It is about an hour and half outside Medellin and definitely worth the trip. It is surrounded by beautiful lakes and full of colorful houses and decorative plazas. There was some kind of festival taking place while I was there so there was tons of good food and stands with beer and crafts set up. it was great. I cannot believe I lost my pictures :(
- Food and Nightlife - so I had some awesome food. Best meal? probably the steak dinner with holondase butter and a glass of red wine. But the chicken pad thai was a close second. Nightlife? was insane. It is like everyone comes to this one area of the city and it just gets crazy. i went out a little with people I met at another hostel (since mine was pristine but devoid of people) but I didn't stay out long. I definitely wished I had been there with some friends because it could have been really awesome. next time!
So thats my trip in a rather large, tree-like nutshell. it was awesome and I would recommend any part of it to anyone!! I was so glad I did it! I can't believe we are now in the homestretch....
Monday, October 18, 2010
Monday, September 13, 2010
Stormy nights
"We been through every kind of rain there is. Little bitty stingin' rain... and big ol' fat rain. Rain that flew in sideways. And sometimes rain even seemed to come straight up from underneath. Shoot, it even rained at night... "-Forest Gump
They say that barranquilla has never seen such a rainy summer. It rains almost every day. And if it doesn't rain in la playa, you can sit on the roof and see it storming somewhere in the distance. It has easily become one of my favorite activities. I will sit on the roof and watch the clouds roll in. The lightening and thunder is like nothing i have ever seen or heard in my life. It feels like a war. The thunder rumbles so loud and long that it shakes the whole house and snaps like a bomb going off. Depending on where you are, you can hear car alarms going off and dogs barking in response. The lightening lights up the entire sky and streaks huge bolts across the horizon. It's like a light show every night. I honestly can't tear myself away. I will stay on the roof until the huge drops come down hard enough that I can't possibly stay any longer. it is completely relaxing and lovely.
Now, if you are unfortunate enough to be out in the rain, that is another story entirely. When it rains, the entire city shuts down. In the US, if it looks like rain, it merely means you might want to grab an umbrella. In Barranquilla, it means you don't leave your house. at all. not for anything. This is mos
tly because there is no drainage system. Therefore, after less than a minute of heavy rain, the streets literally become rivers. Major roads shut down. People can't even cross the street. Cars can't pass. and buses risk turning over. All over the city are signs saying "arroyos peligrosos" or banners with a skull in a river, warning people not to try and cross. Often, people will construct wooden stepping stones or use a cart to push people across the street for a small fee.I can remember one time several months ago when I was meeting a friend for dinner deep into the city. it hadn't been raining when i left, but once it was time to go, the city was a mess. The water was above my knees on the streets. My bus had stopped running and if there were cabs free, they laughed out loud when I asked about la playa. I was literally stuck. So I hopped onto a tiny bus that was still running, in the hopes of at least getting closer to my house. However, not even a block away, the bus got stuck in the arroyos in the streets and had to wait. We sat in that spot for easily an hour while it kept raining. What we were waiting for, i wasn't sure. But I watched as tires, pieces of drift wood, and other objects floated past. Cabs attempted to brave the water, but it was over their tires. One cab actually slipped backwards nearly crashing into another one attempting the same thing. The bus was missing the lid on its emergency exit on the roof, which allowed water to pour in over this woman. So I took my umbrella up into the hole and plugged it. It was quite the adventure. I ended up having to walk like 20 blocks in the rain until I found a cab willing to drive me home. A 30 minute cab drive (if that) ended up taking me over to 3 hours. Quite the adventure.
Typical Barranqulla. Everything is an adventure. i love it ;) What else can you do but huddle under an umbrella and enjoy the view?
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Welcome to Urban Beach...
So I've been a terrible blogger (again). I've realized my problem. It's that I wait until I have way too much to say and end up with a marathon story of what I've been up to. Then, I never have time to tell it all, so I wait until I can do it justice. However, in teh meantime, I miss out on sharing all those random little stories that are actually more interesting anyway. So, I still have some of those big events to share (including my parents visit). Something to look forward to. But in the meantime, I'm just going to share my random musings before I forget them.
Having just 3 months left here in Colombia terrifies me to my very core. It's weird. But while everyone else is excitedly booking tickets home, I'm hanging on to every moment. I've learned so many things about myself here and every day pushes me and challenges me in ways that I never managed to find in the US. I feel so grateful to have had this opportunity. So as I'm figuring out my next step, I'm really enjoying the simple moments that have made this experience so memorable. Here is my thought of the day:
I close my eyes and I'm on the roof in La Playa. I feel the warmth from the sun. the breeze off the ocean. I hear the sounds of the neighborhood bustling below. children shrieking. the call of street vendors selling fresh produce. the song of the ice cream cart cycling through the streets. Somewhere, I can hear vallenato music playing and people laughing. There's a faint hint of jasmine from the trees along the street, the smell of fresh-made bread from the panaderia. I open my eyes and I can see the high-rise buildings from the city center. the crashing waves of the Atlantic in one direction and the flowing water of the Magdalena River in the other. I see the children racing through the alleys of la urba. the stray dogs wandering the street. The women carrying plates of food to their neighbors and some star-crossed lovers walking arm in arm down the street.
Despite the dust, the dirt, the sewage problem, the trash and the endless road construction, there really is no place like it....
Having just 3 months left here in Colombia terrifies me to my very core. It's weird. But while everyone else is excitedly booking tickets home, I'm hanging on to every moment. I've learned so many things about myself here and every day pushes me and challenges me in ways that I never managed to find in the US. I feel so grateful to have had this opportunity. So as I'm figuring out my next step, I'm really enjoying the simple moments that have made this experience so memorable. Here is my thought of the day:
I close my eyes and I'm on the roof in La Playa. I feel the warmth from the sun. the breeze off the ocean. I hear the sounds of the neighborhood bustling below. children shrieking. the call of street vendors selling fresh produce. the song of the ice cream cart cycling through the streets. Somewhere, I can hear vallenato music playing and people laughing. There's a faint hint of jasmine from the trees along the street, the smell of fresh-made bread from the panaderia. I open my eyes and I can see the high-rise buildings from the city center. the crashing waves of the Atlantic in one direction and the flowing water of the Magdalena River in the other. I see the children racing through the alleys of la urba. the stray dogs wandering the street. The women carrying plates of food to their neighbors and some star-crossed lovers walking arm in arm down the street.
Despite the dust, the dirt, the sewage problem, the trash and the endless road construction, there really is no place like it....
Saturday, August 21, 2010
"There is no such thing as fun for the whole family..." - Jerry Seinfeld
Unless of course, its in Colombia!
So I know my parents are waiting to hear what I have to say about their visit. And it was certainly... epic. if there is a word for it. we laughed. we cried. we yelled. we ate amazing food. we drank cocktails at sunset. we played tourist. and we had more together time than I've had probably in the past year.
In some ways, the week they were here (or less, taking into account 2 days for travel time) didn't seem like long enough. I wanted to show them everything. I wanted them to see all my favorite places in Barranquilla. my school. la playa. my kids. my favorite hang-outs and go to my favorite restaurants. But also, in many ways, Barranquilla is not the most beautiful city. It doesn't have a ton of gorgeous architecture or the breathtaking greenery of the rainforest. So if this was going to be their only experience in Colombia, I wanted them to see some of the amazing, diverse Colombian world outside my dusty metropolis. So we absolutely had to take a weekend trip away. So much to do. so little time. But still, at the end of it all, I don't know how much more Colombian fun we could have handled. ;)
I had them stay at Hotel del Prado, which I don't think they regretted. The st
aff spoke English very well and the building was amazing. Crown molding, vaulted ceilings, and beautiful archways that screamed of old-world charm, seeming to have jumped right out of a movie set in Cuba in the 50s. The staff wouldn't let you lift a finger and the rooms were huge. Needless to say, even though I only spent one night there with them, I would definitely recommend it to anyone.
We ate our first meal Thursday night at Wepa, one of my personal barranquilla favorites. It's nothing terribly exciting, but they have great tex-mex food, an eclectic menu, great cocktails (just don't order the margarita) and an atmosphere fusing together Colombian and American influences. Me and my enchiladas were very pleased to be meeting again. After this, I let them get back to their hotel, sleep off the wear of traveling, and promised to pick them up for lunch around 1230 the next day.
After work on Friday, I quickly unpacked my backpack full of day planners, flashcards, and teaching supplies and filled it with fun weekend adventure items, like dresses, flip flops, travel cosmetics, and enough shirts and shorts to last me for a few days. Note, not included was a swim suit. I then raced out of the house with enough time to make the bus. After dropping my stuff at the hotel and arranging a puerta puerta to Cartagena (our weekend adventure destination), I took them to another great spot called Las Flores. I'm sure I mentioned it before. It's an off-the-beaten-track neighborhood in barranquilla, along the Rio Magdalena, known for its amazing fish markets and relative poverty. There are also a number of amazing fish restaurants along the River, with great tables by the water and the best fish around. I figured if they wanted to try real Colombian cuisine, this was the place to do it. Needless to say, the fried fish, complete with bones and eyes, was a little bit of an adjustment for them, but it tasted fabulous. Plus, with arroz con coco, it was pure heaven. Even with mom's insistence on trying something new (a weird seafood medley on top of her fish about which even I was a little cautious), the real adventure came when it was time to get back to the hotel. It had been raining all day, which is not abnormal around these parts, but what i hadn't considered was that the resulting arroyos would block us from getting back. Soooo we finally found a cab in the rain, realized that the Circumvaler (main road around the city) was closed off do to the flooding, and finally turned around and got some kids to push the car through the water in the direction of la playa. Needless to say we got back to the hotel and onto a puerta puerta, headed for Cartagena in no time.
Cartagena was amazing. We had a great weekend. We did all the touristy things that I never get to do, had amazing food, and plenty of beach time. Friday night we just grabbed some sandwiches a
t La Dulceria, walked around Boca Grande, and took it easy. Saturday was reserved for all things Old City. We spent the morning walking around the walled part of the city, popped in a few churches and shops, and had a great lunch at La Cevicheria. Dad is a huge fan of No Reservations, the TV Show with Anthony Bourdain. So since La Cevicheria was his restaurant of choice when he came to Cartagena, I knew it was a must for our visit. The food was great, and despite the publicity, the restaurant was still a rinky-dink little place in a tucked away corner of the old city, free from the annoying souvenir vendors of the main tourist areas. The paella and shrimp pita were absolutely fabulous.
After lunch, we took a chiva tour of the city, including the Castillo San
Filipe. We weaved in and out of the city, stopped at a few shops, and toured the entire fortress, including the winding tunnels and narrow passageways. The tour was all in Spanish, so it was a little challenging. While I usually had a pretty good idea of what they were saying, but translating it all into English was exhausting. Still, I think we enjoyed the afternoon. After the tour, we showered, got dressed, and had a lovely dinner at San Pedro's Cafe. It was a lovely night, so we sat outside and enjoyed the warm Caribbean breezes and the bustling city from the plaza, with San Pedro's Cathedral directly in front of us. The meal was amazing. Asian fusion food with quality and quantity that I hadn't seen since coming to Colombia. I had chicken pad thai and to say I was in heaven was probably an understatement. The colonial architecture, the lovely weather, the amazing food, the fun conversation. i could have sat there all night. We even got to watch a bunch of weddings taking place in the Cathedral. It was like something out of a movie. However, we had a busy day on Sunday, so back to the hotel we went.
Sunday we spent the day at Playa Blanca. This was the first time I had been there on a weekend and I would definitely advise others against doing the same. It was crazy crowded with tons of vendors. Nothing like the calm waves and relaxing atmosphere during the week. I had planned on picking up a boat from the port and making our way there ourselves, but for the interest
of ease and simplicity, we decided to go with a tour from our hotel. Big mistake. It was complicated, took forever, and left little room for flexibility. After driving around the whole city picking people up, maneuvering through the port, finding the right boat (and the rest of our group), paying a $12 mil peso tax a person, a bumpy boat ride , and probably 2-3 hours later, we finally arrived at the beach. Yes, it was crowded and yes, there were lots of vendors. But we did have a nice time. We got a cabana to sit in, the warm caribbean waters, a few pina coladas (from coconuts cracked right in front of us), and a lovely fish lunch. It was nice to stop moving and just sit for a little while. Mom got a massage on the beach, and dad made a few new friends. ;) But like usual, the fun always comes later.
We had great weather, until the very end when it started to rain. We packed up our stuff and took shelter under a patio roof until our boat came. Now, if you think a bumpy speedboat is rough in the sunshine, try it with bullets of rain coming at your face and a motor that appears to break down halfway to the city. While to me, it was just Colombia. nothing out of the ordinary. I think my parents feared for their lives. When we were back on dry land, we were all ready to wash the beach off and relax a little. Resisting the urge to nap, we showered and got dressed for a night out on the town. We had reservations at one of the best restaurants in the city, 8-18. But before dinner, I wanted to grab drinks at Cafe del Mar, a great bar right on the city walls. We hustled and got there just in time for sunset. It was amazing. We grabbed great seats and watched the sun set over the ocean, with the colonial city in the background and a drink in hand. We told stories, laughed, and had a lovely time (and of course took a few pictures). Then, after the sun was long gone and we were slightly more relaxed than we arrived (read:tipsier), we head
ed towards the restaurant. 8-18 wasn't far, but if you hadn't known it was there, you might have missed it. It was in a small alleyway, with a simple sign next to the door. In fact, the host at the door was really the only tip-off. The restaurant was small, and we were seated downstairs, with a great view of the kichen and only 6 other tables. The decor was simple but the ambiance was classy. We ordered a bottle of wine, naturally, and preceded to order the most exquisite and expensive things on the menu. I felt like I was in a whole other country. I got braised oxtail, falling off the bone. Mom got rich and creamy blue cheese risotto with calimari, and Dad got a steak that was to die for. I felt like I literally had died and gone to heaven. And of course we got dessert, a brownie, ice cream, nut concoction that was fabulous. Easily my best meal in Colombia the entire time I've been here. Needless to say, I went to bed very content.
Monday was a long day for us. We had lunch reservations at La Vitrola, which is supposed to be the best and most famous restaurant in town. We were eager to see if it would live up to our heavenly experience at 8-18. But that wasn't until 1pm. Before that, I still wanted to go up to the convent, the highest point in Cartagena, and stop by the dungeons, which had been converted into souvenir shops. No rest for the weary. The Convento de la Popa was amazing. We got a cab to drive us up there, wait for us, and drive us back. He was quite a character and I got to practice my Spanish, which was fun. Once at the top, the view was great. It was a clear morning so you could see all the way to the old city. The building itself was also quaint and had great quotes by saints posted all over a delightful courtyard, complete with plants and a sleeping cat.
After the convent, we headed towards Las Bovedas, for a little souvenir shopping. The dungeons themselves were re
ally cool, and because it was a Monday, it wasn't too busy. I even got a really cool painting on a piece of driftwood. It was challenging to let my parents shop without interjecting with my own knowledge about appropriate prices. But we got some great gifts. And finished with plenty of time to get to La Vitrola. The restaurant itself was adorable. It was said to feel like an old-world Cuban restaurant, which odten boasts live bands in the evenings. This particular afternoon it was quiet. I was disappointed that they didn't have the lobster ravioli, since I've only been craving it for months since I've been here. However, we found appropriate substitutes. The food was good, but I think we would all agree it was nothing like the night before. It was good, but not out of this world. I was glad that we went and it was good, but I wouldn't do it again.
After lunch, we wandered around the town, went to a museum, but it was wicked hot and we were all tired so we ended up hanging out in the hotel lobby for like 2 hours until the bus came to take us home. A long 3 hours puerta puerta ride later, we were back in the lovely Barranquilla. We were all exhausted so we grabbed a light dinner at Crepes and Waffles, a Colombia must-see. It was perfect. I got cream of mushroom soup and a ceasar salad. Just what i needed. Then, I crashed at the hotel, because my parents were coming to school the next day and I needed to help them get there. Sleeping in a real bed, with a soft mattress, goose-down pillows, and a hot shower was definitely something that had been lacking in my life.
School was.... school. The kids loved meeting my parents. My parents loved seeing where I worked, where I lived, and the kids. The kids hugged them the second they saw them and dragged them around school, hand-in-hand. I was exhausted, so I wasn't really on the top of my game. But it was good to share that with them. After school, we did some shopping at buenavista mall, went to the souvenir market near the stadium, and ended up at the hotel, eating a late-afternoon snack and playing in an Olympic size swimming pool with almost no one in it. It was perfect. We got to have some down time, while spending time together. We finished off the week with maracuya mojitos at the Lounge, a drink I had promised dad all weekend. it was the perfect end to a lovely, yet exhausting week.
And that was our week... not in a nutshell. Family + South America + good food + drinks = quite the adventure.
So I know my parents are waiting to hear what I have to say about their visit. And it was certainly... epic. if there is a word for it. we laughed. we cried. we yelled. we ate amazing food. we drank cocktails at sunset. we played tourist. and we had more together time than I've had probably in the past year.
In some ways, the week they were here (or less, taking into account 2 days for travel time) didn't seem like long enough. I wanted to show them everything. I wanted them to see all my favorite places in Barranquilla. my school. la playa. my kids. my favorite hang-outs and go to my favorite restaurants. But also, in many ways, Barranquilla is not the most beautiful city. It doesn't have a ton of gorgeous architecture or the breathtaking greenery of the rainforest. So if this was going to be their only experience in Colombia, I wanted them to see some of the amazing, diverse Colombian world outside my dusty metropolis. So we absolutely had to take a weekend trip away. So much to do. so little time. But still, at the end of it all, I don't know how much more Colombian fun we could have handled. ;)
I had them stay at Hotel del Prado, which I don't think they regretted. The st
aff spoke English very well and the building was amazing. Crown molding, vaulted ceilings, and beautiful archways that screamed of old-world charm, seeming to have jumped right out of a movie set in Cuba in the 50s. The staff wouldn't let you lift a finger and the rooms were huge. Needless to say, even though I only spent one night there with them, I would definitely recommend it to anyone.We ate our first meal Thursday night at Wepa, one of my personal barranquilla favorites. It's nothing terribly exciting, but they have great tex-mex food, an eclectic menu, great cocktails (just don't order the margarita) and an atmosphere fusing together Colombian and American influences. Me and my enchiladas were very pleased to be meeting again. After this, I let them get back to their hotel, sleep off the wear of traveling, and promised to pick them up for lunch around 1230 the next day.
After work on Friday, I quickly unpacked my backpack full of day planners, flashcards, and teaching supplies and filled it with fun weekend adventure items, like dresses, flip flops, travel cosmetics, and enough shirts and shorts to last me for a few days. Note, not included was a swim suit. I then raced out of the house with enough time to make the bus. After dropping my stuff at the hotel and arranging a puerta puerta to Cartagena (our weekend adventure destination), I took them to another great spot called Las Flores. I'm sure I mentioned it before. It's an off-the-beaten-track neighborhood in barranquilla, along the Rio Magdalena, known for its amazing fish markets and relative poverty. There are also a number of amazing fish restaurants along the River, with great tables by the water and the best fish around. I figured if they wanted to try real Colombian cuisine, this was the place to do it. Needless to say, the fried fish, complete with bones and eyes, was a little bit of an adjustment for them, but it tasted fabulous. Plus, with arroz con coco, it was pure heaven. Even with mom's insistence on trying something new (a weird seafood medley on top of her fish about which even I was a little cautious), the real adventure came when it was time to get back to the hotel. It had been raining all day, which is not abnormal around these parts, but what i hadn't considered was that the resulting arroyos would block us from getting back. Soooo we finally found a cab in the rain, realized that the Circumvaler (main road around the city) was closed off do to the flooding, and finally turned around and got some kids to push the car through the water in the direction of la playa. Needless to say we got back to the hotel and onto a puerta puerta, headed for Cartagena in no time.
Cartagena was amazing. We had a great weekend. We did all the touristy things that I never get to do, had amazing food, and plenty of beach time. Friday night we just grabbed some sandwiches a
t La Dulceria, walked around Boca Grande, and took it easy. Saturday was reserved for all things Old City. We spent the morning walking around the walled part of the city, popped in a few churches and shops, and had a great lunch at La Cevicheria. Dad is a huge fan of No Reservations, the TV Show with Anthony Bourdain. So since La Cevicheria was his restaurant of choice when he came to Cartagena, I knew it was a must for our visit. The food was great, and despite the publicity, the restaurant was still a rinky-dink little place in a tucked away corner of the old city, free from the annoying souvenir vendors of the main tourist areas. The paella and shrimp pita were absolutely fabulous.After lunch, we took a chiva tour of the city, including the Castillo San
Filipe. We weaved in and out of the city, stopped at a few shops, and toured the entire fortress, including the winding tunnels and narrow passageways. The tour was all in Spanish, so it was a little challenging. While I usually had a pretty good idea of what they were saying, but translating it all into English was exhausting. Still, I think we enjoyed the afternoon. After the tour, we showered, got dressed, and had a lovely dinner at San Pedro's Cafe. It was a lovely night, so we sat outside and enjoyed the warm Caribbean breezes and the bustling city from the plaza, with San Pedro's Cathedral directly in front of us. The meal was amazing. Asian fusion food with quality and quantity that I hadn't seen since coming to Colombia. I had chicken pad thai and to say I was in heaven was probably an understatement. The colonial architecture, the lovely weather, the amazing food, the fun conversation. i could have sat there all night. We even got to watch a bunch of weddings taking place in the Cathedral. It was like something out of a movie. However, we had a busy day on Sunday, so back to the hotel we went.Sunday we spent the day at Playa Blanca. This was the first time I had been there on a weekend and I would definitely advise others against doing the same. It was crazy crowded with tons of vendors. Nothing like the calm waves and relaxing atmosphere during the week. I had planned on picking up a boat from the port and making our way there ourselves, but for the interest
of ease and simplicity, we decided to go with a tour from our hotel. Big mistake. It was complicated, took forever, and left little room for flexibility. After driving around the whole city picking people up, maneuvering through the port, finding the right boat (and the rest of our group), paying a $12 mil peso tax a person, a bumpy boat ride , and probably 2-3 hours later, we finally arrived at the beach. Yes, it was crowded and yes, there were lots of vendors. But we did have a nice time. We got a cabana to sit in, the warm caribbean waters, a few pina coladas (from coconuts cracked right in front of us), and a lovely fish lunch. It was nice to stop moving and just sit for a little while. Mom got a massage on the beach, and dad made a few new friends. ;) But like usual, the fun always comes later.We had great weather, until the very end when it started to rain. We packed up our stuff and took shelter under a patio roof until our boat came. Now, if you think a bumpy speedboat is rough in the sunshine, try it with bullets of rain coming at your face and a motor that appears to break down halfway to the city. While to me, it was just Colombia. nothing out of the ordinary. I think my parents feared for their lives. When we were back on dry land, we were all ready to wash the beach off and relax a little. Resisting the urge to nap, we showered and got dressed for a night out on the town. We had reservations at one of the best restaurants in the city, 8-18. But before dinner, I wanted to grab drinks at Cafe del Mar, a great bar right on the city walls. We hustled and got there just in time for sunset. It was amazing. We grabbed great seats and watched the sun set over the ocean, with the colonial city in the background and a drink in hand. We told stories, laughed, and had a lovely time (and of course took a few pictures). Then, after the sun was long gone and we were slightly more relaxed than we arrived (read:tipsier), we head
ed towards the restaurant. 8-18 wasn't far, but if you hadn't known it was there, you might have missed it. It was in a small alleyway, with a simple sign next to the door. In fact, the host at the door was really the only tip-off. The restaurant was small, and we were seated downstairs, with a great view of the kichen and only 6 other tables. The decor was simple but the ambiance was classy. We ordered a bottle of wine, naturally, and preceded to order the most exquisite and expensive things on the menu. I felt like I was in a whole other country. I got braised oxtail, falling off the bone. Mom got rich and creamy blue cheese risotto with calimari, and Dad got a steak that was to die for. I felt like I literally had died and gone to heaven. And of course we got dessert, a brownie, ice cream, nut concoction that was fabulous. Easily my best meal in Colombia the entire time I've been here. Needless to say, I went to bed very content.Monday was a long day for us. We had lunch reservations at La Vitrola, which is supposed to be the best and most famous restaurant in town. We were eager to see if it would live up to our heavenly experience at 8-18. But that wasn't until 1pm. Before that, I still wanted to go up to the convent, the highest point in Cartagena, and stop by the dungeons, which had been converted into souvenir shops. No rest for the weary. The Convento de la Popa was amazing. We got a cab to drive us up there, wait for us, and drive us back. He was quite a character and I got to practice my Spanish, which was fun. Once at the top, the view was great. It was a clear morning so you could see all the way to the old city. The building itself was also quaint and had great quotes by saints posted all over a delightful courtyard, complete with plants and a sleeping cat.
After the convent, we headed towards Las Bovedas, for a little souvenir shopping. The dungeons themselves were re
ally cool, and because it was a Monday, it wasn't too busy. I even got a really cool painting on a piece of driftwood. It was challenging to let my parents shop without interjecting with my own knowledge about appropriate prices. But we got some great gifts. And finished with plenty of time to get to La Vitrola. The restaurant itself was adorable. It was said to feel like an old-world Cuban restaurant, which odten boasts live bands in the evenings. This particular afternoon it was quiet. I was disappointed that they didn't have the lobster ravioli, since I've only been craving it for months since I've been here. However, we found appropriate substitutes. The food was good, but I think we would all agree it was nothing like the night before. It was good, but not out of this world. I was glad that we went and it was good, but I wouldn't do it again.After lunch, we wandered around the town, went to a museum, but it was wicked hot and we were all tired so we ended up hanging out in the hotel lobby for like 2 hours until the bus came to take us home. A long 3 hours puerta puerta ride later, we were back in the lovely Barranquilla. We were all exhausted so we grabbed a light dinner at Crepes and Waffles, a Colombia must-see. It was perfect. I got cream of mushroom soup and a ceasar salad. Just what i needed. Then, I crashed at the hotel, because my parents were coming to school the next day and I needed to help them get there. Sleeping in a real bed, with a soft mattress, goose-down pillows, and a hot shower was definitely something that had been lacking in my life.
School was.... school. The kids loved meeting my parents. My parents loved seeing where I worked, where I lived, and the kids. The kids hugged them the second they saw them and dragged them around school, hand-in-hand. I was exhausted, so I wasn't really on the top of my game. But it was good to share that with them. After school, we did some shopping at buenavista mall, went to the souvenir market near the stadium, and ended up at the hotel, eating a late-afternoon snack and playing in an Olympic size swimming pool with almost no one in it. It was perfect. We got to have some down time, while spending time together. We finished off the week with maracuya mojitos at the Lounge, a drink I had promised dad all weekend. it was the perfect end to a lovely, yet exhausting week.
And that was our week... not in a nutshell. Family + South America + good food + drinks = quite the adventure.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Signs you might be becoming Consteño
Or perhaps in my case, signs you have been in Colombia too long
1) You arrive 15 minutes late to everything because you know nothing starts on time. ever. sometimes if at all
2) The temperature drops below 90 and you suddenly break out long pants, a jacket, and a sheet to sleep with
3) Your wall is covered in blood stains from all the mosquitoes you've killed and it doesn't bother you
4) Everyone in the neighborhood knows where you live, and apparently has no qualms about sharing that information with others
5) You've finally learned that rain outside doesn't just mean you need an umbrella. It means you aren't going anywhere. at all. or the streams in the street might make getting home impossible
6) You stop trying to make plans in advance
7) you answer your phone anywhere and everywhere (in movies, class, in the middle of conversations)
8) You take 2-3 showers a day and yet you accept that you will never really feel clean
9) You can now drink the water everywhere without becoming deathly ill
10) You can't go too long without a fresh juice, frito, or comida rapida in your life (and no that doesn't include McDonald's).
11) They finally get buses with air-conditioning, and you actually prefer the ones without because the AC is just too cold
12) Your evening is not complete without hearing Yo no se manana, I Gotta Feeling, Nina Bonita, Sexy Bitch, Hasta Abajo, Tirate Un Paso, and some type of vallanato.
It's nice feeling like you belong. ;)
1) You arrive 15 minutes late to everything because you know nothing starts on time. ever. sometimes if at all
2) The temperature drops below 90 and you suddenly break out long pants, a jacket, and a sheet to sleep with
3) Your wall is covered in blood stains from all the mosquitoes you've killed and it doesn't bother you
4) Everyone in the neighborhood knows where you live, and apparently has no qualms about sharing that information with others
5) You've finally learned that rain outside doesn't just mean you need an umbrella. It means you aren't going anywhere. at all. or the streams in the street might make getting home impossible
6) You stop trying to make plans in advance
7) you answer your phone anywhere and everywhere (in movies, class, in the middle of conversations)
8) You take 2-3 showers a day and yet you accept that you will never really feel clean
9) You can now drink the water everywhere without becoming deathly ill
10) You can't go too long without a fresh juice, frito, or comida rapida in your life (and no that doesn't include McDonald's).
11) They finally get buses with air-conditioning, and you actually prefer the ones without because the AC is just too cold
12) Your evening is not complete without hearing Yo no se manana, I Gotta Feeling, Nina Bonita, Sexy Bitch, Hasta Abajo, Tirate Un Paso, and some type of vallanato.
It's nice feeling like you belong. ;)
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Half Time Game Plan
So last weekend was the WorldTeach Colombia mid-service conference. All the remaining WorldTeach teachers from each of the different sites convened in Taganga, a great little diving village about two hours away from Barranquilla, and swapped stories and brainstormed teaching ideas to make the second half of the year even more successful. But even more importantly, there was also some serious beach and R&R going on. We had a lot of catching up to do.
However, since it is a little more than "mid-service "(I am actually about 7 months in) it's about time that I reevaluate what the heck I am doing here. Rest assured, this is not the first time I have thought about this. I think about where I am going and my goals just about every day. But it is time that I officially admit it. I have had a ton of fun here and have kindof put the whole "goal-reaching" aspect of my time here on the back burner. While I could blame it partially on GRE studying before break, I have absolutely no excuses now. So here goes. My Colombia Status Report:
1) HEALTH
Eating healthy and exercising were two of my original goals for myself. I knew I would have some free time here and since I cook for myself, there is no reason not to try and do it a little more healthfully. Plus, with my sleeping problems getting worse, it certainly can't hurt to get the rest of my body functioning at top performance.
Ok, so first exercise: I was exercising fairly regularly at home, so theoretically, it should have been an easy one. Simply do it. And to be honest, I actually really like exercise. I just selfishly miss the cool nights in the US and my air-conditioned gym. But here, where it is a bazillion degrees out, the kids are wearing me out during the day, and I'm still struggling to get this whole "sleeping like a normal person" thing down, its a real challenge for me. Plus, I kinda like to keep my exercising to myself, and with a house full of athletes and a neighborhood where there are no secrets, its kinda hard. I was actually doing fairly well before summer break. I played soccer a couple times a week with some students after school and had 4 exercise routines (lasting about an hour) that I did at least 3 times a week. I used the same order every time and the routine was really good for me. I even mixed it up and went running a couple times. The heat just really gets to me for some reason. even at night. However, since break I have thus far completely fallen off the exercise bandwagon. I've actually been sleeping comparatively well, but I'm exhausted all the time and this makes for a very detrimental lack of motivation. I know I just have to get started and that the extra exercise will help to boost my energy level, but I haven't been able to bring myself to do it. That is until now. My new goal, mark my words, is to start exercising three times a week again. I will aim for Monday, Wednesday, Friday, but allow for some flexibility. However, my choices are running, the exercise routines I was doing before, or actually, aggressively playing a sport. I did play soccer once with the girls (which, since i havent played with people over the age of 12 in 10 years is pretty impressive in and of itself) but the exercise portion of the activity was less than impressive. Therefore, only real exercise counts. This goal is easy to keep track of and with a schedule, I should have absolutely no excuse not to do it. So there. punto.
Now onto healthy cooking. This has also proven to be somewhat of a challenge for me. Mainly because I have little idea as to what is actually healthy. Ok, in the US I was trying to eat healthier meals. I bought low- or no-fat versions of ingredients. I looked up healthy recipes online and made tons of fresh salads and great recipes with the fully stocked kitchen at my house. However, in Colombia, where my personal food budget is around $15-20 a week, I struggled to find ways to cook healthy meals simply, with few ingredients and without any fancy cookwear. For the longest time, we didn't even have an oven. So, once I started shopping for one on quite a budget, I found healthy cooking a lot more difficult. Yes I know, cheese and carbs = mostly bad. fruits and vegetables = pretty good. But I found myself a little lost as to what my alternatives were. So, I fell back on the easy, old favorites. Quesadillas, eggs, sandwiches, grilled cheese, stir fry, tuna melts, pitas stuffed with salad toppings, pita pizza, and even a little boxed mac & cheese after my sister visited. Not overly bad, really. But most involving bread and/or cheese. Probably not the best choice possible. I did start to make frozen fruit smoothies (when i coudl afford it) a new regular addition to my diet. I don't really like bananas, but once i froze them, added frozen strawberries, and some milk (no sugar added), it was like heaven. However, to be perfectly honest, overall I ate to survive, rather than to get my body exactly what it needed. So. with that said, my new goal is to do a little better. I bought a book recently about what constitutes healthy eating and what a balanced diet really looks like. I'm definitely hoping to reduce my intake of carbs and cheese and increase the amount of fruits and vegetables I eat. I just need to come up with some creative ideas for ways to do this. But living in a country where fresh crops are plentiful, and in a house where half the people drive their diet based off of healthy eating, I should have no problem getting the motivation I need to make this happen. What I need to focus on is the energy to put in the effort necessary. Totally doable, I think.
2) SPANISH
OK, this is a huge one. I stopped studying Spanish to study for the GRE and it really hurt me. I lost a lot of time. Now, I plan to at least make the most of my last 4 months. Here are my main steps:
- I need to study at least 3 times a week. I have a textbook, a CD course, a dictionary, and a wealth of information online so I have no excuse not to study and practice. While I am conversing with people, I think of a million questions and words I don't know, but I never follow-through and actually figure them out. So my new goal is towrite stuff down more and actually study on a regular basis. I find that going to the nearby university is a great way to go because there are people going to classes around me and i dont have the internet there so i cant get distracted. It's getting motivated and out of the house that tends to be my challenge. Including this very moment.
- I checked 2 books in Spanish out of the library (The Christmas Story by Dickens and one by Gabriel Garcia Marquez). Neither very long (no more than 150 pages), but with lots of new vocabulary. So far its slow going, but I like the challenge. I also have Harry Potter, left behind by Marilyn, and Sherlock Holmes, which I bought awhile ago. So I have reading covered.
- I also want to listen and translate more songs (mainly so i can sing along better when I'm out, jaja) But also to pick up the everyday vocabulary and use the music to help me remember the words
- I also need to watch more Spanish TV. I'm thinking about trying to borrow some movies (where I can add Spanish subtitles as well) and maybe pick up a telanovela online.
- Lastly, I need a Spanish practice buddy. Right now, I have the assurance of two separate friends, both who need help with English for school. So hopefully one of those will come through. However, I am a little apprehensive practicing with people I know, and people who speak fairly good English at that. I'm also going to try to get to the Colombo center and see if they can set me up with someone. That way, we will both be on the same page, I hope. :) I'll let you know how it goes!
3) CAREER GOALS
So i really need to set up a special project. I want to get more involved in the program development aspect of the foundation and the issues that actually interest me, such as the challenges of internal displacement, economic development in an impoverished community, and the lives and concerns of the people. I really want to get more involved in the community so I am going to try and spend more time in La Playa and with my students and their families out of class. I still haven't decided exactly how I want to focus my career goals with the rest of my time here, but that is definitely something I need to work out.
4) SPIRITUAL GROWTH
I won't go into great detail here, mostly because this piece of my life is highly personal to me. However, a big part of this year was trying to figure out who I am, what is important to me, and where I want to go in life. Along with this comes my spiritual growth. I have gotten away from regular reflection, devotions, and church attendance, and I really need to fix that. I can feel it in my daily life and the decisions I make. Therefore, I am bringing these aspects back into my life in a big way. I actually tried going to a church this past sunday, but it was raining and after waiting an hour for services to start, I gave up and came home. I did a little self-meditation while I was there so it wasn't a complete loss. But I need to make this piece a bigger part of my daily life as I seek greater balance and health.
So there you have it. More exercise, more Spanish studying, more time with my kids and their families, and more spiritual growth and reflection. Doesn't sound too hard, does it? ;)
However, since it is a little more than "mid-service "(I am actually about 7 months in) it's about time that I reevaluate what the heck I am doing here. Rest assured, this is not the first time I have thought about this. I think about where I am going and my goals just about every day. But it is time that I officially admit it. I have had a ton of fun here and have kindof put the whole "goal-reaching" aspect of my time here on the back burner. While I could blame it partially on GRE studying before break, I have absolutely no excuses now. So here goes. My Colombia Status Report:
1) HEALTH
Eating healthy and exercising were two of my original goals for myself. I knew I would have some free time here and since I cook for myself, there is no reason not to try and do it a little more healthfully. Plus, with my sleeping problems getting worse, it certainly can't hurt to get the rest of my body functioning at top performance.
Ok, so first exercise: I was exercising fairly regularly at home, so theoretically, it should have been an easy one. Simply do it. And to be honest, I actually really like exercise. I just selfishly miss the cool nights in the US and my air-conditioned gym. But here, where it is a bazillion degrees out, the kids are wearing me out during the day, and I'm still struggling to get this whole "sleeping like a normal person" thing down, its a real challenge for me. Plus, I kinda like to keep my exercising to myself, and with a house full of athletes and a neighborhood where there are no secrets, its kinda hard. I was actually doing fairly well before summer break. I played soccer a couple times a week with some students after school and had 4 exercise routines (lasting about an hour) that I did at least 3 times a week. I used the same order every time and the routine was really good for me. I even mixed it up and went running a couple times. The heat just really gets to me for some reason. even at night. However, since break I have thus far completely fallen off the exercise bandwagon. I've actually been sleeping comparatively well, but I'm exhausted all the time and this makes for a very detrimental lack of motivation. I know I just have to get started and that the extra exercise will help to boost my energy level, but I haven't been able to bring myself to do it. That is until now. My new goal, mark my words, is to start exercising three times a week again. I will aim for Monday, Wednesday, Friday, but allow for some flexibility. However, my choices are running, the exercise routines I was doing before, or actually, aggressively playing a sport. I did play soccer once with the girls (which, since i havent played with people over the age of 12 in 10 years is pretty impressive in and of itself) but the exercise portion of the activity was less than impressive. Therefore, only real exercise counts. This goal is easy to keep track of and with a schedule, I should have absolutely no excuse not to do it. So there. punto.
Now onto healthy cooking. This has also proven to be somewhat of a challenge for me. Mainly because I have little idea as to what is actually healthy. Ok, in the US I was trying to eat healthier meals. I bought low- or no-fat versions of ingredients. I looked up healthy recipes online and made tons of fresh salads and great recipes with the fully stocked kitchen at my house. However, in Colombia, where my personal food budget is around $15-20 a week, I struggled to find ways to cook healthy meals simply, with few ingredients and without any fancy cookwear. For the longest time, we didn't even have an oven. So, once I started shopping for one on quite a budget, I found healthy cooking a lot more difficult. Yes I know, cheese and carbs = mostly bad. fruits and vegetables = pretty good. But I found myself a little lost as to what my alternatives were. So, I fell back on the easy, old favorites. Quesadillas, eggs, sandwiches, grilled cheese, stir fry, tuna melts, pitas stuffed with salad toppings, pita pizza, and even a little boxed mac & cheese after my sister visited. Not overly bad, really. But most involving bread and/or cheese. Probably not the best choice possible. I did start to make frozen fruit smoothies (when i coudl afford it) a new regular addition to my diet. I don't really like bananas, but once i froze them, added frozen strawberries, and some milk (no sugar added), it was like heaven. However, to be perfectly honest, overall I ate to survive, rather than to get my body exactly what it needed. So. with that said, my new goal is to do a little better. I bought a book recently about what constitutes healthy eating and what a balanced diet really looks like. I'm definitely hoping to reduce my intake of carbs and cheese and increase the amount of fruits and vegetables I eat. I just need to come up with some creative ideas for ways to do this. But living in a country where fresh crops are plentiful, and in a house where half the people drive their diet based off of healthy eating, I should have no problem getting the motivation I need to make this happen. What I need to focus on is the energy to put in the effort necessary. Totally doable, I think.
2) SPANISH
OK, this is a huge one. I stopped studying Spanish to study for the GRE and it really hurt me. I lost a lot of time. Now, I plan to at least make the most of my last 4 months. Here are my main steps:
- I need to study at least 3 times a week. I have a textbook, a CD course, a dictionary, and a wealth of information online so I have no excuse not to study and practice. While I am conversing with people, I think of a million questions and words I don't know, but I never follow-through and actually figure them out. So my new goal is towrite stuff down more and actually study on a regular basis. I find that going to the nearby university is a great way to go because there are people going to classes around me and i dont have the internet there so i cant get distracted. It's getting motivated and out of the house that tends to be my challenge. Including this very moment.
- I checked 2 books in Spanish out of the library (The Christmas Story by Dickens and one by Gabriel Garcia Marquez). Neither very long (no more than 150 pages), but with lots of new vocabulary. So far its slow going, but I like the challenge. I also have Harry Potter, left behind by Marilyn, and Sherlock Holmes, which I bought awhile ago. So I have reading covered.
- I also want to listen and translate more songs (mainly so i can sing along better when I'm out, jaja) But also to pick up the everyday vocabulary and use the music to help me remember the words
- I also need to watch more Spanish TV. I'm thinking about trying to borrow some movies (where I can add Spanish subtitles as well) and maybe pick up a telanovela online.
- Lastly, I need a Spanish practice buddy. Right now, I have the assurance of two separate friends, both who need help with English for school. So hopefully one of those will come through. However, I am a little apprehensive practicing with people I know, and people who speak fairly good English at that. I'm also going to try to get to the Colombo center and see if they can set me up with someone. That way, we will both be on the same page, I hope. :) I'll let you know how it goes!
3) CAREER GOALS
So i really need to set up a special project. I want to get more involved in the program development aspect of the foundation and the issues that actually interest me, such as the challenges of internal displacement, economic development in an impoverished community, and the lives and concerns of the people. I really want to get more involved in the community so I am going to try and spend more time in La Playa and with my students and their families out of class. I still haven't decided exactly how I want to focus my career goals with the rest of my time here, but that is definitely something I need to work out.
4) SPIRITUAL GROWTH
I won't go into great detail here, mostly because this piece of my life is highly personal to me. However, a big part of this year was trying to figure out who I am, what is important to me, and where I want to go in life. Along with this comes my spiritual growth. I have gotten away from regular reflection, devotions, and church attendance, and I really need to fix that. I can feel it in my daily life and the decisions I make. Therefore, I am bringing these aspects back into my life in a big way. I actually tried going to a church this past sunday, but it was raining and after waiting an hour for services to start, I gave up and came home. I did a little self-meditation while I was there so it wasn't a complete loss. But I need to make this piece a bigger part of my daily life as I seek greater balance and health.
So there you have it. More exercise, more Spanish studying, more time with my kids and their families, and more spiritual growth and reflection. Doesn't sound too hard, does it? ;)
Monday, July 19, 2010
Summer Break....more planes than I ever need to see again
Wow its been a whole month. The sad thing is, its not that I had nothing to write about. So much has happened that each time I thought about writing, I didn't know where to start. So, instead of trying to write a lot about each thing, instead, I'll just pick up with summer break and give you the cliff notes version! Well, to the best of my ability.
GRE
So after I started studying, I realized that my initial goal was definitely not reasonable. This test is nothing like the SAT, or at least the verbal part is infinitely more difficult. for me, anyway. Sadly, I figured out early on that I was going to need to study a lot more than I had originally planned. Which meant that my Spanish studying, sadly, had to go on the back burner. A mistake that Margarita (the woman who owns our house and thinks she is my mother) reminds me of every chance she gets.
Anyway, I can only do the best I can do. So, I set myself a study schedule 2 months before the test and tried my best to stick to it. As far as me and study schedules, I didn't do half bad. While i didn't really take it too seriously (ie do more than flashcards) until two weeks before the test, I did create flashcards for the top 300 vocab words (and learned them all backwards and forwards), researched testing and question techniques, did at least one section of practice questions for each kind of question from my Kaplan Book, went through the ETS GRE math guide to relearn all the math I forgot from high school, took two full-length practice tests online, and went through most of the Number2 GRE test prep program (a great practice for anyone looking for another source of information). So come testing day, I had a pretty good idea of how I would do. My two practice tests had not gone well so I could only hope to do a little better on the actual test.
Overall, I did alright. Obviously not the original goal I set myself, but well enough to put me at least at the 50% mark for those accepted at all of the programs I am looking at. My lowest score was verbal (obviously) but I was still at the 92 percentile, which isn't bad. The vocab was definitely what killed me. I knew those 300 most common words, but there were just too many more that I didn't know. The quantitative went alright. 720, so nothing to write home about but good enough to not hurt me. And I did great on the writing section, which I think is the most important (though possibly easiest, I guess). a 5.5 out of 6. For me and timed writing, I'm definitely pleased. So ultimately, Lauren & GRE = success. Unless something changes drastically, I don't think I'll take it again. which is a huge weight off my shoulders. Now I can focus on Spanish! and maybe not get yelled at by my house mom. yay!
VISIT HOME
I'll try to keep this brief (please keep your laughter to yourself). Home was lovely. I got to sleep in a little, see a fair amount of my friends, and spend some time with family, too. I took the GRE right after I got back so I could get it out of the way. Then I spent a night in Philly with the girls. Chelsea came up from her summer in DC and Laura came out with us, too! I even got to see Lindsay & Mitch's new apartment, which was really nice. Then, the next day was a family picnic, with everyone. Grandparents, aunts, uncles, cousins, etc. And the food. oh, the food. The rest of the week was full of doctor's appointments, running errands, and random dinners with friends and family. I spent 4th of July weekend in DC, which was nice. But, sadly not enough time. I drove down with Ashley and stayed with Kati. It was so nice to catch up with them and see what is going on in everyone's lives, but there were so many people I didn't get to see. By the time two weeks rolled around, I couldn't believe where the time had gone. Comida highlights: Gramma's maccaroni salad, Arbys, La Tolteca, steak Gorgonzola alfredo & Cesar salad at Olive Garden, Enchiladas in China Town DC, mom's baked mac & cheese, pizzeria pizza, dad's cheese and bacon quiche, and the list goes on and on.... I think I have a problem, really. Overall, a great visit home. And just enough time for my family to drive me crazy ;)
THE AMAZON
Anyway, I got back at like 7pm to La Playa, sin electricity or internet. No surprises there. Did see a lovely rainbow on the way home, however the ol' camera was out of battery. I was beat so I unpacked a little and hit the hay. I had it figured out that I could leave at 6 to grab the bus and be at the airport by 8 for my 10am flight. The only problem with my plan (I realized when I woke up at 5am to pack and get ready) was that my flight actually left at 8. whoops. Sooooo I showered and packed in, no joke, 20 minutes. By 5:35 I was out the door and on my way to find a cab to haul my ass to the airport (about an hour away). Of course, the one time i need a cab, there is none. Finally, a guy agrees to take me half way (because its so early????) and i can get a second cab the rest of the way. Eager to get my butt moving, I agreed. needless to say, two cabs later I was all checked in and sitting at my gate waiting for my flight. The time? 6:30. with an hour and a half to wait. I'm so glad I stressed about this. :)
Oh, but the travel adventures did not end there. I had spent all the money in my wallet on the cabs (which I had not planned on) so
I only had 5 mil left. By the time I got to Bogota I was starving so I searched the terminal up and down for an ATM. losing my mind, I asked at the info desk. Surprise, surprise...Bogota airport, huge international gateway, has no ATM without a long hike involving leaving the building. So, to at least quell my hunger, I tried to grab a sandwich at Dunkin Donuts. Guess what. Bogota airport also does not accept credit cards. So.... I took my 5 mil to the pastry counter and managed to find a baked chicken pasty. It did the trick for a bit anyway.
However, the saga could not have possibly ended here. That would just be silly. Leticia airport charges an 18 mil entrance fee to leave the airport. I knew about this, but I had not planned on spending all my money on a cab or on Bogota airport (or Leticia for that matter) not having an ATM. So here I stood, backpack on back, at the counter, with 1 mil in my wallet and not able to leave the airport. Thankfully, an Australian guy offered to lend me the money if i let him tag along to my hostel, since he had no idea where he was going. So, extra friend in tow, I finally arrived at my hostel. My bag a little lighter than I planned and slightly more in debt.
Leticia was amazing, though. I had an incredible time. Once I explained that me and my new friend, Brendan, were in fact NOT a couple, I wasted no time planning out my long weekend. My cell phone reception failed so I couldn't hook up with Aisha and her boyfriend, who were already in the city, and I didn't get to Puerto Narino, but I did get in a lot of fun Amazonian activities. I spent two days in Leticia, Colombia and two days at a nature reserve in the middle of the Peruvian rainforest. After realizing that my hostel had moved and getting lost wandering leticia more times than I'd like to admit, I finally found my bank, met Brendan and some other guys from the hostel for dinner (at a place with unlimited juice! yay!), and got to see the parrots descend on the Parque Santander, where the birds land in thousands at dusk to prepare for their slumber in the trees. It was incredible. it felt kinda nice to be traveling by myself. I got to do what I felt like, when I felt like it. With hostels, there are always people to hang out with, but I got to have a little space, which I haven't had in a long time.
The next morning, I left at 630 for my rainforest stay. We picked up breakfast at a small cafe and then headed to the small bank of the river that served at the city's po
rt. It took between 1-2 hours to get to the bank of the river where we could hike to the reserve. But on the way, we got to see all of the fisherman at work on the Amazon and spotted some of the infamous pink dolphins. They were way too fast for me to get a good picture, but my one goal for the trip was met. chulito, I could go home a happy camper. My companions on the trek were an Irish couple who were just coming for the day and a Chinese couple, studying abroad in Bogota. The tour I had agreed to was actually all in Spanish. With the vast availability of tours in English, one might wonder why I chose to do one entirely in Spanish and stress myself out. Well, the Chinese couple really needed someone to go with them, and I actually liked the challenge. The Irish couple didn't speak any Spanish at all, so for the first half a day, the Chinese girl translated a bunch for them. But I found that I knew what he was saying even before she said it in English. Then, after they left, she didn't translate at all. :) Yes, that's right. I held my own.
The place we stayed was AMAZING. it was on Markesh Lake in the middle of the rainforest. There was a huge dock, with hammocks, tables, and canoes for relaxation. The lake was covered with water lilies and full o
f exotic birds and piranhas. There was even a baby manatee! The first day, we hiked through the rainforest and learned all about the flora and fauna. Then we relaxed on the hammocks on the dock, I finished my book, with the sound of the forest in the background. I think I could have laid there forever. It was then followed by a lovely all-you-can-eat buffet lunch of fresh fish, chicken, plantains, rice, sancocho, and fresh fruit juice. I took my plate out to the porch, and watched the macaws fly among the trees. After lunch, we went to feed the monkeys. Oh, yes. you heard me. we took out a canoe, went right up to the edge of the jungle on the other side of the lake, and fed the monkeys bananas OUT OF OUR HANDS. It was sooo cool. They came onto the boat and everything.
After the monkeys, the irish couple headed out with the rest of the people staying at the reserve. It was so peaceful. So we headed out onto the lake again to go PIRANHA fishing, with just a stick, tied with a string, and a hook with raw chicken. It involved a lot of waiting and a lot of technique, but eventually, I caught one! yay!! They have teeth and everything. and we even got to cook our catches for dinner! Once the sun set, the sky was spectacular. I have never seen so many stars in my entire life. Plus the milky way and both dippers! I just layed out on the dock and watched the sky. However, when I wasn't lost in my thoughts and the night sky, I was paddling in search of crocodiles. Oh, yes. you heard me. With just a rickety canoe and a guide between me and the crocodiles, we went out into the lake at night. At first, all you could see was their red eyes glowing. Then we got closer and could actually see their heads. It was pretty cool.
The next morning, I woke up for a 5 o'clock boat ride to "watch the jungle wake up." But my roommates didn't seem to wake up in time, so it was just me and the guide. But this meant that I got the monkeys all to myself. Sadly, i hadn't had time to shower so the pictures aren't fabulous. but i did get to hold like 3 monkeys so it was still worth losing some sleep. and then i got to nap on the hammocks as the sun came up. Breakfast on the porch was relaxing as usual, and a few cool birds came to visit, a toucan and a bunch of macaws! I did a little more fishing, a little more hiking, a little more playing with monkeys.
Then, I headed out early to see a man about a jaguar. My guide had told me that there were jaguars in the
jungle and that there was a place I could go to see one. However, it started to rain, so we hiked quickly to the boat pick up point. I waited in the rain for awhile, then my guide put me on a boat and told me to ask about the tiger when i got there. The whole adventure was a little comical. Here i was, alone on a rickety canoe with 5 peruvian workers who don't speak English, heading down the amazon (to where, I have no idea), to see a man about a jaguar. When I get there, the guy at the dock tells me to go up some mud stairs, where I'm greeted by a group of children emerging from a bunch of shacks, each children carrying some baby animal from the Amazon. We had baby monkeys, baby 3-toed sloths, baby parrots, and a baby jaguar! I'm sure that there were so many animal rights abuses going on, but it was still so cool. I even got to hold the jaguar in my arms! Totally worth the adventure.
Back in Leticia, I finally got to take off my mud boots (of which I had two left feet), and relax again. I went out for a few drinks with some other people from the hostel. We got 3
mil caipirinhas and talked about our travels. There was a guy from Germany, 3 people from Switzerland, and two girls from Ireland. It was really neat to hear their perspectives on Colombia and South America and where they were headed. The next day, I did a full walking tour of the area. I spent the morning in Tabatinga, Brazil for breakfast. Then I wandered through the market back in Leticia, which leads right up to the Amazon River. So, I sat for awhile and people-watched, watching the boats dock and unload goods for the market, and taking a bunch of pictures of the daily goings-on. Then i did a little shopping in Leticia and sat in Santander park for awhile and read. It was a really nice afternoon. The whole trip was fabulous and I would do it again in a heart beat. It was the perfect way to adjust myself back to Colombia and remind me why I love this country so much. I'm definitely not ready to be done here. In fact, I'm already starting to worry that 4-5 more months won't be enough. :( A great vacation. A perfect break.
GRE
So after I started studying, I realized that my initial goal was definitely not reasonable. This test is nothing like the SAT, or at least the verbal part is infinitely more difficult. for me, anyway. Sadly, I figured out early on that I was going to need to study a lot more than I had originally planned. Which meant that my Spanish studying, sadly, had to go on the back burner. A mistake that Margarita (the woman who owns our house and thinks she is my mother) reminds me of every chance she gets.
Anyway, I can only do the best I can do. So, I set myself a study schedule 2 months before the test and tried my best to stick to it. As far as me and study schedules, I didn't do half bad. While i didn't really take it too seriously (ie do more than flashcards) until two weeks before the test, I did create flashcards for the top 300 vocab words (and learned them all backwards and forwards), researched testing and question techniques, did at least one section of practice questions for each kind of question from my Kaplan Book, went through the ETS GRE math guide to relearn all the math I forgot from high school, took two full-length practice tests online, and went through most of the Number2 GRE test prep program (a great practice for anyone looking for another source of information). So come testing day, I had a pretty good idea of how I would do. My two practice tests had not gone well so I could only hope to do a little better on the actual test.
Overall, I did alright. Obviously not the original goal I set myself, but well enough to put me at least at the 50% mark for those accepted at all of the programs I am looking at. My lowest score was verbal (obviously) but I was still at the 92 percentile, which isn't bad. The vocab was definitely what killed me. I knew those 300 most common words, but there were just too many more that I didn't know. The quantitative went alright. 720, so nothing to write home about but good enough to not hurt me. And I did great on the writing section, which I think is the most important (though possibly easiest, I guess). a 5.5 out of 6. For me and timed writing, I'm definitely pleased. So ultimately, Lauren & GRE = success. Unless something changes drastically, I don't think I'll take it again. which is a huge weight off my shoulders. Now I can focus on Spanish! and maybe not get yelled at by my house mom. yay!
VISIT HOME
I'll try to keep this brief (please keep your laughter to yourself). Home was lovely. I got to sleep in a little, see a fair amount of my friends, and spend some time with family, too. I took the GRE right after I got back so I could get it out of the way. Then I spent a night in Philly with the girls. Chelsea came up from her summer in DC and Laura came out with us, too! I even got to see Lindsay & Mitch's new apartment, which was really nice. Then, the next day was a family picnic, with everyone. Grandparents, aunts, uncles, cousins, etc. And the food. oh, the food. The rest of the week was full of doctor's appointments, running errands, and random dinners with friends and family. I spent 4th of July weekend in DC, which was nice. But, sadly not enough time. I drove down with Ashley and stayed with Kati. It was so nice to catch up with them and see what is going on in everyone's lives, but there were so many people I didn't get to see. By the time two weeks rolled around, I couldn't believe where the time had gone. Comida highlights: Gramma's maccaroni salad, Arbys, La Tolteca, steak Gorgonzola alfredo & Cesar salad at Olive Garden, Enchiladas in China Town DC, mom's baked mac & cheese, pizzeria pizza, dad's cheese and bacon quiche, and the list goes on and on.... I think I have a problem, really. Overall, a great visit home. And just enough time for my family to drive me crazy ;)
THE AMAZON
Anyway, I got back at like 7pm to La Playa, sin electricity or internet. No surprises there. Did see a lovely rainbow on the way home, however the ol' camera was out of battery. I was beat so I unpacked a little and hit the hay. I had it figured out that I could leave at 6 to grab the bus and be at the airport by 8 for my 10am flight. The only problem with my plan (I realized when I woke up at 5am to pack and get ready) was that my flight actually left at 8. whoops. Sooooo I showered and packed in, no joke, 20 minutes. By 5:35 I was out the door and on my way to find a cab to haul my ass to the airport (about an hour away). Of course, the one time i need a cab, there is none. Finally, a guy agrees to take me half way (because its so early????) and i can get a second cab the rest of the way. Eager to get my butt moving, I agreed. needless to say, two cabs later I was all checked in and sitting at my gate waiting for my flight. The time? 6:30. with an hour and a half to wait. I'm so glad I stressed about this. :)
Oh, but the travel adventures did not end there. I had spent all the money in my wallet on the cabs (which I had not planned on) so
I only had 5 mil left. By the time I got to Bogota I was starving so I searched the terminal up and down for an ATM. losing my mind, I asked at the info desk. Surprise, surprise...Bogota airport, huge international gateway, has no ATM without a long hike involving leaving the building. So, to at least quell my hunger, I tried to grab a sandwich at Dunkin Donuts. Guess what. Bogota airport also does not accept credit cards. So.... I took my 5 mil to the pastry counter and managed to find a baked chicken pasty. It did the trick for a bit anyway.However, the saga could not have possibly ended here. That would just be silly. Leticia airport charges an 18 mil entrance fee to leave the airport. I knew about this, but I had not planned on spending all my money on a cab or on Bogota airport (or Leticia for that matter) not having an ATM. So here I stood, backpack on back, at the counter, with 1 mil in my wallet and not able to leave the airport. Thankfully, an Australian guy offered to lend me the money if i let him tag along to my hostel, since he had no idea where he was going. So, extra friend in tow, I finally arrived at my hostel. My bag a little lighter than I planned and slightly more in debt.
Leticia was amazing, though. I had an incredible time. Once I explained that me and my new friend, Brendan, were in fact NOT a couple, I wasted no time planning out my long weekend. My cell phone reception failed so I couldn't hook up with Aisha and her boyfriend, who were already in the city, and I didn't get to Puerto Narino, but I did get in a lot of fun Amazonian activities. I spent two days in Leticia, Colombia and two days at a nature reserve in the middle of the Peruvian rainforest. After realizing that my hostel had moved and getting lost wandering leticia more times than I'd like to admit, I finally found my bank, met Brendan and some other guys from the hostel for dinner (at a place with unlimited juice! yay!), and got to see the parrots descend on the Parque Santander, where the birds land in thousands at dusk to prepare for their slumber in the trees. It was incredible. it felt kinda nice to be traveling by myself. I got to do what I felt like, when I felt like it. With hostels, there are always people to hang out with, but I got to have a little space, which I haven't had in a long time.
The next morning, I left at 630 for my rainforest stay. We picked up breakfast at a small cafe and then headed to the small bank of the river that served at the city's po
rt. It took between 1-2 hours to get to the bank of the river where we could hike to the reserve. But on the way, we got to see all of the fisherman at work on the Amazon and spotted some of the infamous pink dolphins. They were way too fast for me to get a good picture, but my one goal for the trip was met. chulito, I could go home a happy camper. My companions on the trek were an Irish couple who were just coming for the day and a Chinese couple, studying abroad in Bogota. The tour I had agreed to was actually all in Spanish. With the vast availability of tours in English, one might wonder why I chose to do one entirely in Spanish and stress myself out. Well, the Chinese couple really needed someone to go with them, and I actually liked the challenge. The Irish couple didn't speak any Spanish at all, so for the first half a day, the Chinese girl translated a bunch for them. But I found that I knew what he was saying even before she said it in English. Then, after they left, she didn't translate at all. :) Yes, that's right. I held my own.The place we stayed was AMAZING. it was on Markesh Lake in the middle of the rainforest. There was a huge dock, with hammocks, tables, and canoes for relaxation. The lake was covered with water lilies and full o
f exotic birds and piranhas. There was even a baby manatee! The first day, we hiked through the rainforest and learned all about the flora and fauna. Then we relaxed on the hammocks on the dock, I finished my book, with the sound of the forest in the background. I think I could have laid there forever. It was then followed by a lovely all-you-can-eat buffet lunch of fresh fish, chicken, plantains, rice, sancocho, and fresh fruit juice. I took my plate out to the porch, and watched the macaws fly among the trees. After lunch, we went to feed the monkeys. Oh, yes. you heard me. we took out a canoe, went right up to the edge of the jungle on the other side of the lake, and fed the monkeys bananas OUT OF OUR HANDS. It was sooo cool. They came onto the boat and everything.After the monkeys, the irish couple headed out with the rest of the people staying at the reserve. It was so peaceful. So we headed out onto the lake again to go PIRANHA fishing, with just a stick, tied with a string, and a hook with raw chicken. It involved a lot of waiting and a lot of technique, but eventually, I caught one! yay!! They have teeth and everything. and we even got to cook our catches for dinner! Once the sun set, the sky was spectacular. I have never seen so many stars in my entire life. Plus the milky way and both dippers! I just layed out on the dock and watched the sky. However, when I wasn't lost in my thoughts and the night sky, I was paddling in search of crocodiles. Oh, yes. you heard me. With just a rickety canoe and a guide between me and the crocodiles, we went out into the lake at night. At first, all you could see was their red eyes glowing. Then we got closer and could actually see their heads. It was pretty cool.
The next morning, I woke up for a 5 o'clock boat ride to "watch the jungle wake up." But my roommates didn't seem to wake up in time, so it was just me and the guide. But this meant that I got the monkeys all to myself. Sadly, i hadn't had time to shower so the pictures aren't fabulous. but i did get to hold like 3 monkeys so it was still worth losing some sleep. and then i got to nap on the hammocks as the sun came up. Breakfast on the porch was relaxing as usual, and a few cool birds came to visit, a toucan and a bunch of macaws! I did a little more fishing, a little more hiking, a little more playing with monkeys.
Then, I headed out early to see a man about a jaguar. My guide had told me that there were jaguars in the
jungle and that there was a place I could go to see one. However, it started to rain, so we hiked quickly to the boat pick up point. I waited in the rain for awhile, then my guide put me on a boat and told me to ask about the tiger when i got there. The whole adventure was a little comical. Here i was, alone on a rickety canoe with 5 peruvian workers who don't speak English, heading down the amazon (to where, I have no idea), to see a man about a jaguar. When I get there, the guy at the dock tells me to go up some mud stairs, where I'm greeted by a group of children emerging from a bunch of shacks, each children carrying some baby animal from the Amazon. We had baby monkeys, baby 3-toed sloths, baby parrots, and a baby jaguar! I'm sure that there were so many animal rights abuses going on, but it was still so cool. I even got to hold the jaguar in my arms! Totally worth the adventure.Back in Leticia, I finally got to take off my mud boots (of which I had two left feet), and relax again. I went out for a few drinks with some other people from the hostel. We got 3
mil caipirinhas and talked about our travels. There was a guy from Germany, 3 people from Switzerland, and two girls from Ireland. It was really neat to hear their perspectives on Colombia and South America and where they were headed. The next day, I did a full walking tour of the area. I spent the morning in Tabatinga, Brazil for breakfast. Then I wandered through the market back in Leticia, which leads right up to the Amazon River. So, I sat for awhile and people-watched, watching the boats dock and unload goods for the market, and taking a bunch of pictures of the daily goings-on. Then i did a little shopping in Leticia and sat in Santander park for awhile and read. It was a really nice afternoon. The whole trip was fabulous and I would do it again in a heart beat. It was the perfect way to adjust myself back to Colombia and remind me why I love this country so much. I'm definitely not ready to be done here. In fact, I'm already starting to worry that 4-5 more months won't be enough. :( A great vacation. A perfect break.
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Waka Waka ¡eh! ¡eh! ¡esto es áfrica!.... the World Cup bridges cultures
I would be lying if I said that there weren't times that I feel light-years away from home and completely disconnected from all my friends and family. Being abroad is hard. But that only makes events like the World Cup so much more comforting and awesome. I go on Facebook, and I find friends who are watching the same game at 5:30 in the morning in South Korea and 2:30 in the afternoon in the US. When it was time for the US-England match, I had friends watching in a pub in England, a bar in Germany, a living room in Thailand, and a party in the US and across Colombia. I, myself, had gone with some friends to find just about the most American bar in all of Barranquilla. We sat in chairs shaped like soccer, basketball, and American footballs, surrounded by American sports memorabilia and feeling like we were home. Even in the American bar, there were Colombians, Germans, Americans, and Brits, all cheering for different teams. It was a really cool experience. Just like when you look at the moon or the stars and know that everywhere people are looking at the same sky, I really had never felt so connected to everyone. With even North Korea represented, you can rest assured that when politics, economics, and mass communication fail, you can leave it to sports and the World Cup to bring everyone together.
Ironically, not only do I feel closer to home and my friends around the world with the World Cup, but I feel closer to Colombia as well. While Colombia didn't make the Cup this year, there is no shortage of World Cup enthusiasm. We took periods off from classes to watch the first game; we crowded into the gym during medienda to catch what we could of the latest match between Portugal and Côte d’Ivoire. The whole country is wearing jerseys, cheering on their favorite teams (usually South American) and feeling a huge sense of pride to be a part of it. Shakira even sang the theme song for the Cup, Waka Waka, calling everyone to dance for one Goal: to promote universal education. I may be far away from home right now, but I'm part of something great. Let the mundial madness continue!
PS - you can't miss the FPD 3rd and 4th graders doing the Waka Waka dance (some of my babies!) They are fabulous. see below (or if its easier, here is youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIFC0G1MO1Q)
Ironically, not only do I feel closer to home and my friends around the world with the World Cup, but I feel closer to Colombia as well. While Colombia didn't make the Cup this year, there is no shortage of World Cup enthusiasm. We took periods off from classes to watch the first game; we crowded into the gym during medienda to catch what we could of the latest match between Portugal and Côte d’Ivoire. The whole country is wearing jerseys, cheering on their favorite teams (usually South American) and feeling a huge sense of pride to be a part of it. Shakira even sang the theme song for the Cup, Waka Waka, calling everyone to dance for one Goal: to promote universal education. I may be far away from home right now, but I'm part of something great. Let the mundial madness continue!
PS - you can't miss the FPD 3rd and 4th graders doing the Waka Waka dance (some of my babies!) They are fabulous. see below (or if its easier, here is youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIFC0G1MO1Q)
Saturday, May 29, 2010
It's All Greek to Me.... the language learning curve
His face was clearly distressed. His brow was furled and his eyes narrow as he paced back and forth in front of his home, dust flying. When I saw him, I knew I was in trouble. He had been expecting me. and I was late.
Joel was fiery, energetic, and (usually) patient. We could do anything together: read, play ball, or tell stories about life and the way things were. He could tell the same story a thousand times, and maintain the same excitement and passion as the first. Whenever I had a bad day, I just needed to think about his smile and unending optimism, and I knew I would feel better. He was my lifeline. He was also four years old. And today, he was not feeling so understanding.
As soon as he saw me, he maintained his look of displeasure long enough for me to understand what I’d done, and then instantly broke into a toothless grin. Before I knew it, he was running into my arms, pointing inside, and jabbering on about his latest conquest, involving a bug and a stick. I was actually here today to tutor his older sister, who was currently failing my class. Originally, when I had imagined myself tutoring, I had hoped it would be with teenagers or adults, looking to practice their already-decent English and willing to pay for it. I mean, I am a volunteer and a little extra spending money would have been lovely. And the company of an older crowd couldn’t hurt either. However, when Joel’s mother had asked me how much I charged, I couldn’t utter anything besides “nada.” How could I possibly charge a family who had cooked me lunch and taken me to the beach without a thought of cost? And who, I should also add, did not have a functioning toilet. I couldn’t. obviously.
So here I sat, Joel in my lap, trying to explain the use of the sentence “I am wearing…” to a smiling 5th grade girl without a clue. The whole affair made me really think about language, perspective, and choices. If you had told me a year ago that I would be here, in Colombia, in a house where no one spoke English, I would probably have laughed. I came to Colombia without a word of Spanish, and no overwhelming talent for picking up languages on the fly. To this day I understand maybe 30% of what people say to me. Still, against my better judgment, I continue to go to lunches at students’ homes. I still try to talk to families and spend time with my students after school. This is all because I’ve come to learn in my 4 months here so far, that language is not just a barrier. It’s an opportunity. A chance to learn and a chance to connect with someone using whatever tools you have available. It’s not about how quickly you can form your sentences or whether you use the perfect vocabulary or idioms. It’s about effort. It’s the time you take to sit down and listen. It’s the message. The smiles you witness when an understanding has been found. For me, Spanish is a source of immense frustration, pleasure, challenge, and accomplishment. Compared to the other volunteers here in Barranquilla, my skills are terribly lacking and I am constantly confused and embarrassed on a regular basis. But I'm also learning. I'm making friends. and I'm getting there. and that's what counts.
The same is true with for my English students. When we started, they knew absolutely nothing. Now they are actually learning vocabulary and trying to use it. They are making sentences (sometimes half in English and half in Spanish) but they are learning. When visitors come, they are eager to use their warm up questions on the new faces. "Where are you from?" "What is your name?" "How old are you?" The amount that they still don't know is certainly overwhelming, but it doesn't stop them from trying. The truth is, I learn a lot from their enthusiasm. From teaching them English, I have not only picked up new Spanish vocabulary, but I have watched their eagerness to learn and to try and it has really been a source of motivation for me.
So here I sit, trying to channel my inner Spanish to help Isabel understand how English is similar. Neighborhood kids are waving from outside, visitors are constantly passing by, and joel is jammering away. It's probably a billion degrees and bugs are everywhere. But this is my life. Language acquisition is certainly a difficult process, marked by a great deal of trial and error. But if my kids are willing to listen to me and try to learn, then I owe them the same patience, both with them and with myself. So, with dictionary in tow, we trudge on. Me with my Spanish and Isabel with her English. Learning from each other and growing together. And with Joel giggling by my side (as an ant crawls up my arm), I now know that some things are the same in every language.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
they say to really understand a man, you must walk a mile in his shoes...
So here are where my shoes have taken me. Lately, I've got to thinking a lot about transportation in Colombia (and apparently watching too much Sex adn the City on my computer since my last two posts have started with "I've got to thinking.") But that is neither here not there. In a country that is always changing, yet still behind the times in so many ways, I thought I would enlighten you on the many transportation choices available to one living in La Playa and the joys that await you with each:
(1) Walking -
First and foremost, your own two feet are easily the cheapest option, and often the most entertaining. Most things that you really need are within walking distance in La Playa: our school, tiendas, panaderias, churches, Atlantico University, neighborhoods to run in, even a gym run out of a small shack-like building. Plus, there are people, animals, food carts, and any number of adventures that await you if you choose this method. However, you must take into account the many obstacles. First, beware that if you are a lady, you will inevitably encounter a large number of admirers on your trek. Whether you are heading into the La Playa proper or out towards the Universities, men will whistle, call out compliments, try to use any English words they know (I even had a guy yell July! once), make noises, or even block your way for attention. In most instances, it is rather harmless, semi-flattering (if you choose to see it that way), and easy to tune out after awhile. Every now and then you will get an over-zealous admirer who wants to make your walk a little more difficult, but its all part of the adventure. For some, anyway.
Then, you must remember the live animals you will encounter. These could include anything from dogs and cats, to birds, horses, donkeys, chickens, etc. One of my children even had a hamster on my walk home yesterday. It is also entirely possible to encounter children with dead animals, as I have on several occasions. So be on guard... :)
Next, you must consider the ever changing traffic patterns. Calle 14, the main road through La Playa, has been under construction since March. Now I want to assure you that I use the word "construction" loosely. Mostly, men have been sitting around, digging up the perfectly adequate cement road, creating a mess, moving dirt around, and forcing both cars and motos to drive on the sidewalk. Now, if this doesn't sound exciting enough for you, just wait. They enjoy moving the dirt in such a way as to change the traffic pattern daily. So you never know when you are going to get run over or when the traffic will be "directed" to the other side. Furthermore, the construction creates an amazing amount of dust and dirt in the air. Like I said, always an adventure.
Lastly, and probably the worst obstacle of all, is the weather. The heat in the afternoon is downright unbearable! The sun is beating down, my hair is a sweaty mess, my clothes and soaked with sweat, and some days I am practically a puddle on the floor by the time I get home. Often, I wonder if I am even going to make it. However, we did find a nice little shortcut, htorugh a neighborhood. It is lined with nice trees (many of them with mangos!) and provides a lovely two blocks of shade and protection from the crazy construction mess. Then, when it rains, oh dear. The streets flood, the "sidewalks" get muddy, and the rains ensure that you are completely soaked by the time you read your destination, even with an umbrella. However, if you make sure to avoid the midday sun, the heat is tolerable (at least you get a nice tan ;), and the rains can often be avoided with a little patience. just gotta learn to adjust.
However, there are some perks to this whole walking thing, besides the exercise. First, there are the food and fruit stands. You can't stop for a fresh fruit juice or inexpensive snack if you are in a cab or on a moto. Nothing like a fruit juice popsicle or fresh maracuya to make the walk a little more pleasant. Secondly, you get to meet the neighbors! It's nice knowing who lives around you. You get to know them, say hi, hear about their days. Sometimes, complete strangers will even offer you some fruit from their yard (its currently mango season and I can't get enough of the mango gifts). it's acutally really nice seeing people you know and having people recognize you. it makes you a real part of the community and reminds me, at least, why I love this place so much. The people. With a little music to set the mood, it can be a very pleasant experience.
Still, if all this "adventure" is a little too much for you, and you have the money, never you fear. There are definitely other choices just an arm's reach away...
(2) Bus -
Then there are buses. Now I never considered myself a "bus person" before coming to Colombia. the invariable schedules and complicated routes left me with way too much to remember. I would much prefer a fairly regular train schedule with a list of stops or a metro map any day. However, since these options do not exist, buses are basically essential is you are without a car, poor (like me), and have any desire to actually go into Barranquilla city (or anywhere outside La Playa for that matter). Therefore, I have learned to love them, with their own set of quirks. One good thing about the buses is that they run fairly frequently (unless, of course, you are in a hurry) and you can pick a bus up at any point along its route; you don't need to walk all the way to a designated stop. Also, buses can take you almost anywhere, if you just know the right combination for relatively cheap. A typical bus costs $1,300 pesos ($1,400 on Sundays and holidays) regardless of where you get on or how far you are going (and thats about 65 cents). This makes it fairly economical and pretty simple to figure out what you owe. A few weeks in La Playa and the bus will become your best friend.
However, buses are definitely not entirely smooth sailing. First, many buses are not marked with their exact route, and what small, hand-written sign they do have is probably not legible until the bus is right in front of you (and thus too late to make it stop). Therefore, you need to know esactly what you are looking for. Second, the bus will pull away the second you step on, so hold on tight and have your money ready, because you need to pay before sitting down.. Also, be aware that buses are often crowded and not air conditioned, so try to sit near a window if at all possible. If you are fortunate to find an empty bus, don't be surprised if the people who get on after you want to sit in the seat next to you, despite all of the available seats in the rest of the bus. All part of the adventure. Ok, now that you are safely in your seat, pay attention! Because the bus will only stop when you tell it to. So if you aren't watching where you are, you very well may miss your stop and end up in God-knows-where. When you are close, make sure to give yourself enough time to maneuver to the back of the bus, push the button above the door, and wait to be let out. Then you're done. Easy, peazy, lemon-squeezy.
(3) Moto
Another popular option is the Moto. Motos can come in two forms. One is your typical, run-of-the-mill motorcycle, some of which even offer the option of wearing a helmet. The other is a wagon-looking contraption, with a bench-like bubble attached to the back of the motorcycle. Motos are typically a step up in price, but they more than make up for it in speed. They can take you just about any distance and get you there quickly - just make sure you don't value your hair style that day. plus, it is super fun!
However, they do come with some form of discomfort (I mean, it is a motorcycle )and its fair share of possible hazards. First, it puts you very close to another person on a very hot day, and with bags it can be fun trying to balance. Furthermore, I, myself, have a lovely looking scar on my leg from a burn I received almost three months ago, from stepping off the wrong side and burning my leg on the muffler (please exit to the left...). Another volunteer at a different location had a moto go so fast that when it took a turn, it skidded out and left him with his own battle wounds (simply remember despacio por favor!) Also, as another volunteer reminded me, sharing helmets can certainly open you up to lice or any other form of health issues. Entonces, efficient, fun, but slightly risky. But what's life without a little risk, right?
Below is a short jaunt on a moto through parts of La Playa (with one of my students and her dad). This is on of the mroe major roads, and once you leave, you are subjuct to crazy terrain, dirt, gravel, and rocks. Therefore, I could only film a little before holding on beat my desire for a good movie. But it gives you an idea.
(4) Cab
Perhaps the MOST efficient, yet most expensive is to take a cab. Unlike in Bogota, you do not need to call a cab ahead of time. They are just about everywhere and fairly reasonable, especially with a few people. You can comfortably fit 4 passengers in a typical cab, and some will even let you squeeze 5 (but they risk a hefty fine if they get caught). A typical cab can get you into the city for about $5,000-7,000 pesos (about $2.50-3.50) and if you need to go a little farther or its later at night, you are looking at about $10,000-12,000. The buses stop running around 9:30-9:45 PM so if you are considering a late night in the city, cabs are your only option (or you can just live it up until the buses start running again at 4-4:30 AM).
BENEFITS = speed, time, comfort, the radio, sometimes air conditioning, no weird people to have to maneuver around, etc.
DRAWBACKS = price
RULES = always negotiate a price before getting in the cab, and its perfectly reasonable to barter. Second, if you are with a colombian, let them do the talking. The second the driver realizes you are not from around here, they will raise the price like crazy. Third, pay attention, because many cab drivers have absolutely no idea where they are going. As odd as it seems, many drivers do not know the city at all. even with an address or the name of a well-known establishment. I had one cab driver struggle to drive us five blocks. It was late and we didn't feel comfortable walking in a part of the city we didn't know very well, but we ended up calling a friend to give the driver directions - back from the 15 blocks out the way we had traveled. It was a mess and took forever. Luckily we had time and got an excellent tour around el centro in the process!
(5) Friends with cars
And then there is the elusive friend with a car. This, while difficult to find, is the best optino by far. You get all the perks of a cab (speed, radio choices, air conditioning, direct routes, and a usually knowledgable driver, without the cost). It's awesome. However, most people are not lucky enough to enjoy this luxury. So for the other times when your friends are too busy to play chauffer, you are stuck with the bus or cab.
And those are your options. Clearly, La Playa and Barranquilla is just a mecca of transportation options, you just have to be open to a little adventure.
(1) Walking -
First and foremost, your own two feet are easily the cheapest option, and often the most entertaining. Most things that you really need are within walking distance in La Playa: our school, tiendas, panaderias, churches, Atlantico University, neighborhoods to run in, even a gym run out of a small shack-like building. Plus, there are people, animals, food carts, and any number of adventures that await you if you choose this method. However, you must take into account the many obstacles. First, beware that if you are a lady, you will inevitably encounter a large number of admirers on your trek. Whether you are heading into the La Playa proper or out towards the Universities, men will whistle, call out compliments, try to use any English words they know (I even had a guy yell July! once), make noises, or even block your way for attention. In most instances, it is rather harmless, semi-flattering (if you choose to see it that way), and easy to tune out after awhile. Every now and then you will get an over-zealous admirer who wants to make your walk a little more difficult, but its all part of the adventure. For some, anyway.
Then, you must remember the live animals you will encounter. These could include anything from dogs and cats, to birds, horses, donkeys, chickens, etc. One of my children even had a hamster on my walk home yesterday. It is also entirely possible to encounter children with dead animals, as I have on several occasions. So be on guard... :)
Next, you must consider the ever changing traffic patterns. Calle 14, the main road through La Playa, has been under construction since March. Now I want to assure you that I use the word "construction" loosely. Mostly, men have been sitting around, digging up the perfectly adequate cement road, creating a mess, moving dirt around, and forcing both cars and motos to drive on the sidewalk. Now, if this doesn't sound exciting enough for you, just wait. They enjoy moving the dirt in such a way as to change the traffic pattern daily. So you never know when you are going to get run over or when the traffic will be "directed" to the other side. Furthermore, the construction creates an amazing amount of dust and dirt in the air. Like I said, always an adventure.
Lastly, and probably the worst obstacle of all, is the weather. The heat in the afternoon is downright unbearable! The sun is beating down, my hair is a sweaty mess, my clothes and soaked with sweat, and some days I am practically a puddle on the floor by the time I get home. Often, I wonder if I am even going to make it. However, we did find a nice little shortcut, htorugh a neighborhood. It is lined with nice trees (many of them with mangos!) and provides a lovely two blocks of shade and protection from the crazy construction mess. Then, when it rains, oh dear. The streets flood, the "sidewalks" get muddy, and the rains ensure that you are completely soaked by the time you read your destination, even with an umbrella. However, if you make sure to avoid the midday sun, the heat is tolerable (at least you get a nice tan ;), and the rains can often be avoided with a little patience. just gotta learn to adjust.
However, there are some perks to this whole walking thing, besides the exercise. First, there are the food and fruit stands. You can't stop for a fresh fruit juice or inexpensive snack if you are in a cab or on a moto. Nothing like a fruit juice popsicle or fresh maracuya to make the walk a little more pleasant. Secondly, you get to meet the neighbors! It's nice knowing who lives around you. You get to know them, say hi, hear about their days. Sometimes, complete strangers will even offer you some fruit from their yard (its currently mango season and I can't get enough of the mango gifts). it's acutally really nice seeing people you know and having people recognize you. it makes you a real part of the community and reminds me, at least, why I love this place so much. The people. With a little music to set the mood, it can be a very pleasant experience.
Still, if all this "adventure" is a little too much for you, and you have the money, never you fear. There are definitely other choices just an arm's reach away...
(2) Bus -
Then there are buses. Now I never considered myself a "bus person" before coming to Colombia. the invariable schedules and complicated routes left me with way too much to remember. I would much prefer a fairly regular train schedule with a list of stops or a metro map any day. However, since these options do not exist, buses are basically essential is you are without a car, poor (like me), and have any desire to actually go into Barranquilla city (or anywhere outside La Playa for that matter). Therefore, I have learned to love them, with their own set of quirks. One good thing about the buses is that they run fairly frequently (unless, of course, you are in a hurry) and you can pick a bus up at any point along its route; you don't need to walk all the way to a designated stop. Also, buses can take you almost anywhere, if you just know the right combination for relatively cheap. A typical bus costs $1,300 pesos ($1,400 on Sundays and holidays) regardless of where you get on or how far you are going (and thats about 65 cents). This makes it fairly economical and pretty simple to figure out what you owe. A few weeks in La Playa and the bus will become your best friend.
However, buses are definitely not entirely smooth sailing. First, many buses are not marked with their exact route, and what small, hand-written sign they do have is probably not legible until the bus is right in front of you (and thus too late to make it stop). Therefore, you need to know esactly what you are looking for. Second, the bus will pull away the second you step on, so hold on tight and have your money ready, because you need to pay before sitting down.. Also, be aware that buses are often crowded and not air conditioned, so try to sit near a window if at all possible. If you are fortunate to find an empty bus, don't be surprised if the people who get on after you want to sit in the seat next to you, despite all of the available seats in the rest of the bus. All part of the adventure. Ok, now that you are safely in your seat, pay attention! Because the bus will only stop when you tell it to. So if you aren't watching where you are, you very well may miss your stop and end up in God-knows-where. When you are close, make sure to give yourself enough time to maneuver to the back of the bus, push the button above the door, and wait to be let out. Then you're done. Easy, peazy, lemon-squeezy.
(3) Moto
Another popular option is the Moto. Motos can come in two forms. One is your typical, run-of-the-mill motorcycle, some of which even offer the option of wearing a helmet. The other is a wagon-looking contraption, with a bench-like bubble attached to the back of the motorcycle. Motos are typically a step up in price, but they more than make up for it in speed. They can take you just about any distance and get you there quickly - just make sure you don't value your hair style that day. plus, it is super fun!
However, they do come with some form of discomfort (I mean, it is a motorcycle )and its fair share of possible hazards. First, it puts you very close to another person on a very hot day, and with bags it can be fun trying to balance. Furthermore, I, myself, have a lovely looking scar on my leg from a burn I received almost three months ago, from stepping off the wrong side and burning my leg on the muffler (please exit to the left...). Another volunteer at a different location had a moto go so fast that when it took a turn, it skidded out and left him with his own battle wounds (simply remember despacio por favor!) Also, as another volunteer reminded me, sharing helmets can certainly open you up to lice or any other form of health issues. Entonces, efficient, fun, but slightly risky. But what's life without a little risk, right?
Below is a short jaunt on a moto through parts of La Playa (with one of my students and her dad). This is on of the mroe major roads, and once you leave, you are subjuct to crazy terrain, dirt, gravel, and rocks. Therefore, I could only film a little before holding on beat my desire for a good movie. But it gives you an idea.
(4) Cab
Perhaps the MOST efficient, yet most expensive is to take a cab. Unlike in Bogota, you do not need to call a cab ahead of time. They are just about everywhere and fairly reasonable, especially with a few people. You can comfortably fit 4 passengers in a typical cab, and some will even let you squeeze 5 (but they risk a hefty fine if they get caught). A typical cab can get you into the city for about $5,000-7,000 pesos (about $2.50-3.50) and if you need to go a little farther or its later at night, you are looking at about $10,000-12,000. The buses stop running around 9:30-9:45 PM so if you are considering a late night in the city, cabs are your only option (or you can just live it up until the buses start running again at 4-4:30 AM).
BENEFITS = speed, time, comfort, the radio, sometimes air conditioning, no weird people to have to maneuver around, etc.
DRAWBACKS = price
RULES = always negotiate a price before getting in the cab, and its perfectly reasonable to barter. Second, if you are with a colombian, let them do the talking. The second the driver realizes you are not from around here, they will raise the price like crazy. Third, pay attention, because many cab drivers have absolutely no idea where they are going. As odd as it seems, many drivers do not know the city at all. even with an address or the name of a well-known establishment. I had one cab driver struggle to drive us five blocks. It was late and we didn't feel comfortable walking in a part of the city we didn't know very well, but we ended up calling a friend to give the driver directions - back from the 15 blocks out the way we had traveled. It was a mess and took forever. Luckily we had time and got an excellent tour around el centro in the process!
(5) Friends with cars
And then there is the elusive friend with a car. This, while difficult to find, is the best optino by far. You get all the perks of a cab (speed, radio choices, air conditioning, direct routes, and a usually knowledgable driver, without the cost). It's awesome. However, most people are not lucky enough to enjoy this luxury. So for the other times when your friends are too busy to play chauffer, you are stuck with the bus or cab.
And those are your options. Clearly, La Playa and Barranquilla is just a mecca of transportation options, you just have to be open to a little adventure.
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